Using copper restrip

Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size before?

TIA!!!
J

DragonFly wrote:
The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper
Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?


No, you don't need to run the restrip right across, provided it is
buried in the seam - it really isn't strong like rebar Buried in a
seam, it will provide stiffness across what might otherwise be "hinge"
lines, but there is no extra benefit from having it as a continuoius
line

Lots of questions.

"Rebar" basics.
1- Round bars ties on to windows with wire are called saddle bars.
2- Rebars do not support/hold up windows.
3- Saddle bars are to prevent windows from being blown into the
building. When installed properly the wires are about a 1/2 turn loose.
This is to allow the window to move in the wind.
4- Soldered on flat bars help keep the window from bowing if installed
at the proper location. IE perpendicular to hinge points.
5- Restip , steel inserts,reforce lead are generally placed full width
or full length. This in effect WILL create a hinge.
6- When making a design with squares (like original question) weaving
the lead will make the strongest window. Weaving lead crosses only 2
pieces of glass horizontal and is bisected by a vertical lead covering
2 pieces of glass. Thus no straight through lead line. Adding soldered
on rebar will increase the strength of the window.
7- Zinc bars soldered to a lead window may cause a galvanic reaction
which in time will "rot" the lead.

The wire ties?
Are they soldered to the lead, or are they mechanically fastened, too?

"Vic" wrote in message
ups.com...

Lots of questions.

"Rebar" basics.
1- Round bars ties on to windows with wire are called saddle bars.
2- Rebars do not support/hold up windows.
3- Saddle bars are to prevent windows from being blown into the
building. When installed properly the wires are about a 1/2 turn loose.
This is to allow the window to move in the wind.
4- Soldered on flat bars help keep the window from bowing if installed
at the proper location. IE perpendicular to hinge points.
5- Restip , steel inserts,reforce lead are generally placed full width
or full length. This in effect WILL create a hinge.
6- When making a design with squares (like original question) weaving
the lead will make the strongest window. Weaving lead crosses only 2
pieces of glass horizontal and is bisected by a vertical lead covering
2 pieces of glass. Thus no straight through lead line. Adding soldered
on rebar will increase the strength of the window.
7- Zinc bars soldered to a lead window may cause a galvanic reaction
which in time will "rot" the lead.

Thanks for the good info Vic.... I know you exceed my experience by several
factors. However, to point #2, simple physics indicates that rebars do
indeed provide additional support for portions of a panels' total weight,
'*if* the rebars are soldered on & bedded into the surrounding framing.
That may not have been the original purpose ( wind) but a vertical
support effect cannot be discounted if bedded rebars are present. A similar
situation: I've used "soldered on"steel rebars to add support to 'skylight'
cieling panels many times. Those same panels would be sagging quite a ways
by now, I imagine, if such reinforcement was not present. The additional
strength and rigidity after attaching the rebars is clearly obvious, to me
anyway. As always, these benefits depend on design and execution.

cheers, Jacques Bordeleau

==================================================

"Vic" wrote in message
ups.com...

Lots of questions.

"Rebar" basics.
1- Round bars ties on to windows with wire are called saddle bars.
2- Rebars do not support/hold up windows.
3- Saddle bars are to prevent windows from being blown into the
building. When installed properly the wires are about a 1/2 turn loose.
This is to allow the window to move in the wind.
4- Soldered on flat bars help keep the window from bowing if installed
at the proper location. IE perpendicular to hinge points.
5- Restip , steel inserts,reforce lead are generally placed full width
or full length. This in effect WILL create a hinge.
6- When making a design with squares (like original question) weaving
the lead will make the strongest window. Weaving lead crosses only 2
pieces of glass horizontal and is bisected by a vertical lead covering
2 pieces of glass. Thus no straight through lead line. Adding soldered
on rebar will increase the strength of the window.
7- Zinc bars soldered to a lead window may cause a galvanic reaction
which in time will "rot" the lead.

It's common to see window deflect around horizontal rebars. Both in and
out in a serpentine fashion. Once a widow start to deflect (many
possible cause) the rebar typically gets torn from the lead. The lead
breaks around the solder joint. Same thing happens with tied on saddle
bars. The wire and the lead around them just tears out. Vertical
rebars do indeed help support a window as they can transfer weight down
to the sill.

Skylinghts/laylights are a whole different animal. Rebar should be
under the panel to help support it.

In all cases, rebar does not negate the need for good design and
technique.

Ties wires are best embedded into solder joints. If face soldered to
the lead flange they will eventually tear the lead. The wire is then
twisted around the bar. 14 or 16 guage copper wire in normal. Flux
and tin the wire with a small solder ball in the middle of a 6" (or so)
length of wire.

It is important to understand when you are designing the window.
Rebars/saddle bars should NOT be after thoughts. They NEED to be
designed into the window for proper solder points.

"DragonFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size before?

TIA!!!
J


I think copper restrip is as valuable as router coolant and your appendix.

--
JK Sinrod
Sinrod Stained Glass Studios
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories