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#42
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Another interesting post. So much to learn. I won't change how I
handle my needlework, because what I do has been successful and because I'm not worried about 100 years down the road. But there were some interesting notes to take into consideration should the need arise. I've printed it out. Thanks, Elaine. Dianne Elaine Benfatto wrote: Jim Cripwell described the ingredients and said it was pure soap - not detergent. Actually, I must disagree with that. I formulate shampoos and body care products professionally so I am very familiar with what is in Orvus. It is a detergent, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. NOT a soap. SLS is exceptionally cheap and used in very, very many household products, from dishwashing detergents to toothpaste. Anything in which foam is desired. Among the detergents (or in the technical jargon, "surfactants") that are used for shampoo and body care products, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is considered quite harsh and drying to the skin. I would personally never use it in its pure state as a shampoo, because it can be an eye irritant and it would do quite a number on my already rather dry hair. It is used in many shampoos, though, because formulators buffer it with other ingredients that reduce its harsh effects on skin and hair. SLS is mainly used to produce foam. There are many other surfactants that clean hair beautifully and gently, but do not produce the level of foam that consumers expect in shampoos. So SLS is used to boost the foam levels (and also reduce the overall costs. It's extremely cheap stuff!) I use Woolite, but I would be very careful of it with some threads, since it has a minor bleaching agent in it. Woolite does not contain a bleaching agent. This question has come up in some of my other email lists, and I have done my best to figure out Woolite's formulation from the information available on its Material Data Safety Sheet. As far as I can tell (and the information in the MSDS is limited), it contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate (a somewhat gentler version of Orvus) and another, harsher surfactant that is used more often for industrial cleaning products. There is no acid (as I've heard some people report) nor is there bleach listed among its ingredients. The biggest problem, besides the harshness of the surfactants, is that it seems rather alkaline. That is not so good for wool. Cotton likes alkaline conditions, but wools prefer acidic environments. Alkaline conditions can degrade the hand and the luster of wool fibers. Silk can tolerate alkaline conditions, but I can't say as much for the dyes sometimes used on silk. From what I can see, the dyes can sometimes be affected by certain harsh detergents that break down the chemical bonds holding the dye molecules to the fiber, causing the dyes to run. Kitchen detergent, such as Dawn, works very well in embroidery because it gets rid of skin oils effectively. The amount of oils that needs to be cleaned from needlework after the stitching is finished is actually quite small. I know people get very concerned about skin oils and grime, but compared to other household cleaning jobs, there's relatively little oil to wash out. I agree that hand dishwashing liquids have some of the most effective grease-cutting detergents available in consumer-level products right now. I would recommend, however, that you stay with the cheap generic store brands that don't have all the "power booster" enhancements, etc. You don't need it. The ingredients used to enhance grease-cutting could have a negative effect on the dyes in your silk and wool fibers. (Not as critical for cotton or linen, which are dyed in alkaline conditions in the first place.) So the cheap, wimpy products that don't foam all that well are perfect for cleaning handwork. Another perfectly acceptable alternative are generic storebrand shampoos. Again, stay away from the fancy conditioning, herbal enhanced, shiny glitz making, curly activating types... They could possibly leave some conditioning agents behind after rinsing (they're formulated that way!) and we don't know what effects those conditioners would have over the years, decades, and hopefully centuries ahead. But generic shampoos are formulated with as few ingredients as possible for monetary reasons. So if you look at the product labels, you'll no doubt see our old friend Orvus (aka Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) listed with its well-known siblings, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocoamide DEA, and perhaps Cocomidapropyl Betaine. All of these are perfectly fine for fiber, can remove skin oils from the needlework, and rinse clean. And they're cheap. Baby shampoo could be fine too, but it's not necessary and it's expensive. And I often used Tide or Cheer - which guard against fading colors. I would not recommend laundry detergents for washing needlework. Yes, the brands you listed are supposed to guard against fading colors, but that's in the context of other laundry detergents! Among household cleaners, laundry detergents are probably among the strongest you have in your house. Many, many of them do not even contain detergents, but are based on other chemical families, such as washing sodas and ethylated alcohols. All of these ingredients can have the effect of loosening the dye from the fiber, which causes fading They're great for washing cotton and synthetics in washing machines, and would be good for cleaning things like stoves, burned pots, etc. But handwork? No. Stick with simple liquid detergents, like those found in shampoo, dishwashing liquid, or Orvus. They are more compatible with the materials in your pieces and will clean without nearly the same risk of damage. Elaine Benfatto Cambridge, Mass USA |
#43
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In article , Cheryl Isaak
writes: Tang or baking soda! Duly filed away. Though, since I buy dishwasher detergent when it's on sale two-fer (and then get four), it's highly unlikely that I will ever run out of the stuff. And if I do, there is the bottle of grease-cutter dish liquid to tide me over a short spell of doing it manually. -- Finished 5/21/04 - Fireman's Wife WIP: Fireman's Prayer, Amid Amish Life, Angel of Autumn, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe Paralegal - Writer - Editor - Researcher http://hometown.aol.com/kmc528/KMC.html |
#44
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Orvus.
On Thursday, May 27, 2004 4:06:34 PM UTC-4, Gillian Murray wrote:
Well, all. I have just returned from my local Ranch/feed store with their last jug of Orvus. It is just under $20 for 120 ounces, so it will work out a lot more economical to use than the stuff in a blue jar at the stitchy stores. The owner said some people even wash their hair in it, so we may try it on the dogs. Interestingly enough, on the container it DOES mention it's use in handwashing delicate fabrics, so I guess the secret is out! Gillian sweltering in 100deg (shade) temps in Florida. Where ccan you buy ORVUS soap in Jacksonville, Fl? Thanks, Maryann |
#45
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Orvus.
On 8/14/2013 1:24 PM, wrote:
Where ccan you buy ORVUS soap in Jacksonville, Fl? Thanks, Maryann A good feed or saddle shop would have it, if not, craft shops like Michaels carry it, more expensively. Or check your local Tractor Supply store (I checked and there is one in Jacksonville). Remember, though, that they sell the gallon containers, since it's a shampoo for farm animals. Works really great on them, too! -- Joan See my pictures he http://ndjoan.shutterfly.com/pictures If worries can cure your sickness, prolong your life, or replace happiness, then go ahead and worry! If they can't, why worry? Enjoy every moment of your life...there is no second chance. Unknown |
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