If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
clay production - cutting off expences
Hi all,
I am relatively new to ceramics and to this group, and I would like to ask one question. What is minimum of equipment required for clay production? Scenario would be something like this: I get some clay directly from deposit, and then what? I live close to some first rate clay deposit, which is used by nearby brick plant. At deposit it can be found some first rate clay (so they say, and I believe it is the truth). There are red, yellow, white, grease?, sandy? (their terminology) etc.. clay at that deposit. And what is most important, it can be purchased virtually free. Therefore I have an idea to buy my own machinery and start to produce clay for my new formed studio. And perhaps for selling to others. Based on what I found on Web, i think that I will be need something like these: 1. ball mill ? or it is only pugmill enough? 2. pugmill ie. Some 3" Venco De-airing Pugmill 3. Blunger i.e.. some 15 gallon Blunger 4. An electrically operated screen i.e.. Gladstone G135 Vibratory sifter 5. Filter press And that is it. But I have feeling that some of enumerated items are redundant, or for minimum expenses that can be done functioning combination of 3 out of 5 enumerated above. What do you think? Thanks in advance, MJ PS and I am sorry for my very bad English, I just hope that it is not annoying to much |
Ads |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I would recommend finding a ceramic supplier near you and pricing
everything out. It is better to buy locally then to deal with expensive shipping rates. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
MJ wrote:
Hi all, I am relatively new to ceramics and to this group, and I would like to ask one question. What is minimum of equipment required for clay production? Scenario would be something like this: I get some clay directly from deposit, and then what? I live close to some first rate clay deposit, which is used by nearby brick plant. At deposit it can be found some first rate clay (so they say, and I believe it is the truth). There are red, yellow, white, grease?, sandy? (their terminology) etc.. clay at that deposit. And what is most important, it can be purchased virtually free. Therefore I have an idea to buy my own machinery and start to produce clay for my new formed studio. And perhaps for selling to others. Based on what I found on Web, i think that I will be need something like these: 1. ball mill ? or it is only pugmill enough? 2. pugmill ie. Some 3" Venco De-airing Pugmill 3. Blunger i.e.. some 15 gallon Blunger 4. An electrically operated screen i.e.. Gladstone G135 Vibratory sifter 5. Filter press And that is it. But I have feeling that some of enumerated items are redundant, or for minimum expenses that can be done functioning combination of 3 out of 5 enumerated above. What do you think? I have no idea, what all you need to process your own clay, but my feeling is that it is not worthwhile to invest in all that. If you have local clay available, it is probably quite cheap and for the money you would spend on the machinery you could probably buy clay for years and years to come. I buy clay locally and it is dirtcheap. Monika -- Monika Schleidt www.schleidt.org/mskeramik (If you wish to send me a mail, please leave out the number after my name!) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
My clay preparation equipment consists of:
A couple of plastic Bins a large paint stirrer on an electric drill And 2 slightly tapered *Trouser legs* made out of non-organic material and the means to hang them up. Clay material is dried out, mixed with lots of water and a cupful of Cider Vinegar (to speed up souring), sieved if necessary (40 mesh), poured into the Trouser legs and hung up to dry. When the clay feels a bit on the dry side on the outside it is a bit soft on the inside, so wedging it will even it up for use. It will also, thanks to the Cider Vinegar, be VERY plastic and excellent to use. Total cost: not a lot! I rest my case! Steve Bath UK MJ wrote: Hi all, I am relatively new to ceramics and to this group, and I would like to ask one question. What is minimum of equipment required for clay production? Scenario would be something like this: I get some clay directly from deposit, and then what? -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I have on my mind.
I will try your approach, and with time perhaps buy some machinery. One more question for you: Where do you find it and what kind is that clay? In my case, clay is in deposit nearby, but this is a clay used for brick production. I think it will be good enough, but perhaps I will need some good sieve. Thanks again, MJ |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 10:31:06 +0000, Steve Mills
wrote: My clay preparation equipment consists of: A couple of plastic Bins a large paint stirrer on an electric drill And 2 slightly tapered *Trouser legs* made out of non-organic material and the means to hang them up. Clay material is dried out, mixed with lots of water and a cupful of Cider Vinegar (to speed up souring), sieved if necessary (40 mesh), poured into the Trouser legs and hung up to dry. When the clay feels a bit on the dry side on the outside it is a bit soft on the inside, so wedging it will even it up for use. It will also, thanks to the Cider Vinegar, be VERY plastic and excellent to use. Total cost: not a lot! I rest my case! Steve Bath UK My process is similar to Steve's, with a couple of minor differences: First, I was never able to simply dry out my garden clay and then add water to get it plastic again. There were always lumps that just never seemed to go away. I found I had to dry it, then smash it up with a hammer and let it dry some more (over the kiln, in my case). I finally sieved the dry clay bits through an old window screen. This had the added advantage of removing pebbles and twigs. (Wear a mask!) Then it was added to water and reconstituted nicely. One further point that may or may not affect you: My clay had lots of lime inclusions. Bits small enough to go through a window screen were still plenty big enough to cause lime pops. I ended up putting the slip through an 80 mesh sieve to solve that. (I've heard that a coarser mesh may be OK, but this worked for me.) After all that, it's too precious to use for bodies! But it makes a dandy "Albany slip" glaze at cone 6. Best regards, Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
In article , MJ writes
Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I have on my mind. I will try your approach, and with time perhaps buy some machinery. One more question for you: Where do you find it and what kind is that clay? I use this technique for any clay body I use. I haven't used it for local clay for some years, but that was a local riverbank clay which I now use as a slip glaze. Currently I make up a mix from powdered ball clays and fine silica sand. There is a large bed of very refractory clay along the edge of the River Severn which is about 25 miles from here. A major brickworks use it, and I use their bricks to build my kilns. I've taken it well over 1300oC. I may well have a go at that in the near future, just for the fun of it. Steve Bath UK In my case, clay is in deposit nearby, but this is a clay used for brick production. I think it will be good enough, but perhaps I will need some good sieve. Thanks again, MJ -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Bob Masta wrote:
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 10:31:06 +0000, Steve Mills wrote: My clay preparation equipment consists of: A couple of plastic Bins a large paint stirrer on an electric drill And 2 slightly tapered *Trouser legs* made out of non-organic material and the means to hang them up. Clay material is dried out, mixed with lots of water and a cupful of Cider Vinegar (to speed up souring), sieved if necessary (40 mesh), poured into the Trouser legs and hung up to dry. When the clay feels a bit on the dry side on the outside it is a bit soft on the inside, so wedging it will even it up for use. It will also, thanks to the Cider Vinegar, be VERY plastic and excellent to use. Total cost: not a lot! I rest my case! Steve Bath UK My process is similar to Steve's, with a couple of minor differences: First, I was never able to simply dry out my garden clay and then add water to get it plastic again. There were always lumps that just never seemed to go away. I found I had to dry it, then smash it up with a hammer and let it dry some more (over the kiln, in my case). I finally sieved the dry clay bits through an old window screen. This had the added advantage of removing pebbles and twigs. (Wear a mask!) Then it was added to water and reconstituted nicely. One further point that may or may not affect you: My clay had lots of lime inclusions. Bits small enough to go through a window screen were still plenty big enough to cause lime pops. I ended up putting the slip through an 80 mesh sieve to solve that. (I've heard that a coarser mesh may be OK, but this worked for me.) After all that, it's too precious to use for bodies! But it makes a dandy "Albany slip" glaze at cone 6. That's exactly what i mean, if you go to all the trouble to make this clay, it becomes more expensive than if you buy it from the people who already have all the equipment to do so on a large scale. You also have to consider the time you spend, which is probably better used to make and sell pots, than to prepare your own clay. It sounds very romantic, but is not really cost efficient? They have the knowhow and the equipment, we know how to make pots. (If i want to sew a dress, i am not going into spinning and weaving, i buy fabric and leave the spinning and weaving to those who know how to do that.) If you make a dandy Albany slip out of it, more power to you. That's great. Monika -- Monika Schleidt www.schleidt.org/mskeramik (If you wish to send me a mail, please leave out the number after my name!) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"Monika Schleidt" wrote in message ... Bob Masta wrote: On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 10:31:06 +0000, Steve Mills wrote: My clay preparation equipment consists of: A couple of plastic Bins a large paint stirrer on an electric drill And 2 slightly tapered *Trouser legs* made out of non-organic material and the means to hang them up. Clay material is dried out, mixed with lots of water and a cupful of Cider Vinegar (to speed up souring), sieved if necessary (40 mesh), poured into the Trouser legs and hung up to dry. When the clay feels a bit on the dry side on the outside it is a bit soft on the inside, so wedging it will even it up for use. It will also, thanks to the Cider Vinegar, be VERY plastic and excellent to use. Total cost: not a lot! I rest my case! Steve Bath UK My process is similar to Steve's, with a couple of minor differences: First, I was never able to simply dry out my garden clay and then add water to get it plastic again. There were always lumps that just never seemed to go away. I found I had to dry it, then smash it up with a hammer and let it dry some more (over the kiln, in my case). I finally sieved the dry clay bits through an old window screen. This had the added advantage of removing pebbles and twigs. (Wear a mask!) Then it was added to water and reconstituted nicely. One further point that may or may not affect you: My clay had lots of lime inclusions. Bits small enough to go through a window screen were still plenty big enough to cause lime pops. I ended up putting the slip through an 80 mesh sieve to solve that. (I've heard that a coarser mesh may be OK, but this worked for me.) After all that, it's too precious to use for bodies! But it makes a dandy "Albany slip" glaze at cone 6. That's exactly what i mean, if you go to all the trouble to make this clay, it becomes more expensive than if you buy it from the people who already have all the equipment to do so on a large scale. You also have to consider the time you spend, which is probably better used to make and sell pots, than to prepare your own clay. It sounds very romantic, but is not really cost efficient? They have the knowhow and the equipment, we know how to make pots. (If i want to sew a dress, i am not going into spinning and weaving, i buy fabric and leave the spinning and weaving to those who know how to do that.) If you make a dandy Albany slip out of it, more power to you. That's great. Monika -- Monika Schleidt www.schleidt.org/mskeramik And any pot I make is far more expensive than what I can get from corning. There is always down time in the studio when something like this can be done. I just love the process itself. It really isn't that different from recycling your unused clay only more fun because of the adventure involved. Turns out there are also people that love to spin and weave the material they used for making a piece of clothing more than doing the sewing (I really like weaving and dread sewing). In pottery it is the entire process I love - from wedging huge piles of clay on a cement slab by walking on it to opening the kiln at the end of a firing. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Sizzix and polymer clay | Irwin | Polymer Clay | 4 | November 19th 13 10:37 PM |
warning: GREAT LAKES CLAY COMPANY (WILL STEAL FROM YOU) | grizzzlyadam | Pottery | 17 | March 19th 04 02:22 AM |
Modeling clay as a substitute for "clay bars" for auto detailing? | Jon Noring | Polymer Clay | 4 | September 23rd 03 12:36 AM |
FA: $5.00The Technique of Stained Glass | Elric of Imrryr | Marketplace | 0 | July 30th 03 03:53 AM |
FAQ:Intro to rec.crafts.pottery | Mishy Lowe | Pottery | 0 | July 18th 03 06:05 AM |