Sewing/Basting fabric to scroll bars

Sometimes you get lucky and can rotate the scroll frame. For example, if
your piece was say 27" wide by 12" high, put the 12" high on the 20" scroll
rods and you would just be scrolling the width instead of height.

Usually doesn't luck out that way and unless you have a floorstand to hold
the larger rods, you might be more comfortable with the weight of a hoop or
a q-snap in your hands (there are extenders for the q-snap).

I'm sure it goes without saying that you need to remove the hoop every time
you put the project down. To help avoid hoop marks, I also put acid free
white tissue paper between top hoop and the fabric and tear the paper to
create an opening to stitch. Not perfect but helps a little.

The 80+ year-old lady who stitched the Mirabilia and Lavendar-Lace models
for our shop did so on a hoop and always brought in the most perfect,
mark-free pieces for framing any of us had ever seen. She also didn't start
in the center of the pattern because she was always in a hurry to see the
faces -- I wouldn't trust myself counting that out.

It's all in what you are comfortable with, no use making it an unpleasant
project.


"Bev72" wrote in message
...
Is there any way to attach the linen when it is wider than the scroll
frame. I have a large project (Black Swan) and my scroll bars are only
20".
I am working on a hoop at present. Thanks for any help.


"ellice" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/07 1:17 PM, "Cheryl Isaak" wrote:

On 12/16/07 12:57 PM, in article ,
"Karen
C in California" wrote:

Cheryl Isaak wrote:

I use Qsnaps, I use my scroll rods, I use a hoop or work in hand....
Depends...

C


Now there's an idea ... if we wore Depends while stitching, we
wouldn't
have to get up so often.
Oh brother!

I am now beet red.

Mind you, I could have used the Depends this AM - I was laughing so
hard, I
thought I would wet myself

C

Somewhat after the fact - but no one mentioned these scroll bars, so
thought
I'd do a bit of enabling. I switch from Q-snaps to Scroll bars, with
respect to the project (stretcher bars for canvas work). However, there
is
a company which makes scroll rods using Q-snap covers. They're called
"Handi-Clamps" and according to their labelling have license from Q-snap
(I
think the Q-snap folks may provide the plastic cover part). Anyhow, they
work very well - we sell a lot of them in the shop. I have some of
those,
and some traditional ones as well. WRT to the traditional - I just use
the
local handy thread and do a running basting stitch - with a back-stitch
at
the beginning= to hold it. Putting the linen about an inch up onto the
scroll fabric, about 1/2 inch from linen edge. Then I do a 2nd quick
set
of stiches at the edge of the scroll frame fabric - tacking it to the
linen
(keeps that piece from flapping annoyingly when things are
rolled/unrolled).

Link to the handi-clamps:
http://www.handiclamp.net/Products.htm

And while enabling - these Mini frames and mini-mini frames are pretty
adorable, and good to work with - they come with scroll rods, and you can
swap whatever other scrolls you have into them - for the most part.
Just
fun. Personally , I like the ones with the back being open fersus the
Doodler style.

http://imagesstitcherydesign.com/res...?SubCategory=1

Well, guess I should quit reading and go do some stitchin!

Ellice

On Feb 28, 8:39 pm, "Debbie Rice" wrote:

I'm sure it goes without saying that you need to remove the hoop every time
you put the project down.

This is another one of "those" things. One doesn't necessarily *need*
to remove the hoop. I've been embroidery for over 40 years and I have
never removed my hoop between stitching sessions (and I sometimes go
many days between sessions). I've also never had a problem with hoop
marks. I use the old-fashioned 5" metal & cork hoops, can't stand the
screw-type, wooden or plastic.

The 80+ year-old lady who stitched the Mirabilia and Lavendar-Lace models
... She also didn't start in the center of the pattern

Nor do I or a great many others. I seem to start randomly at
whichever point makes the most sense to me. Usually it's one of the
main colors so I have something to work from, but not always.

It's all in what you are comfortable with, no use making it an unpleasant
project.

Now I think we can *all* agree with this statement!

Joan

The cork, like tissue paper, really helps with mark avoidance (and the metal
is better at avoiding marks and easier to wipe clean than plastic or wooden
hoops). "Days" between stitching is different from stitchers who leave
projects in hoops for weeks or months at a time.

I've stitched for more than 30 years myself and in the first few years, I
did get some nasty surprises from hoop marks. Some of my first projects
were not-quick-to-stitch MarBek angels and as a military family we moved a
lot -- which meant things got packed up a lot and when unpacking needlework
.... I learned not to take chances. It's not something the "cross-stitch
police" enforced on me.

The plastic and wood hoops tend to really mold into the fabric and attract
every stray bit of oil or dirt available to make things worse (and some of
the cheaper wood hoops are very rough/splintery inside and sometimes even
have remnants of machine oil from their manufacturing). Anyone washing (by
hand or by dishwasher) plastic containers knows how greasy stuff clings to
plastic--that's true even if it's only the natural oils from your hands.

As with everything, including your own hands, always make sure everything is
clean. And different fabrics are worse about hoop marks -- seems like Aida
seems the worst to remove hoop marks from.

"Joan E." wrote in message
...
On Feb 28, 8:39 pm, "Debbie Rice" wrote:

I'm sure it goes without saying that you need to remove the hoop every
time
you put the project down.

This is another one of "those" things. One doesn't necessarily *need*
to remove the hoop. I've been embroidery for over 40 years and I have
never removed my hoop between stitching sessions (and I sometimes go
many days between sessions). I've also never had a problem with hoop
marks. I use the old-fashioned 5" metal & cork hoops, can't stand the
screw-type, wooden or plastic.