Dirty Question

If you use Matt board you won`t need spacers, of course, as the board -
particularly if you use multiple matts - acts as a spacer. Make sure you
seal the back well, though, to try to keep TINY black beasties out. Or maybe
you only get them in England? I don`t know if they actually do any harm, but
better safe than sorry!

Pat P.

--
Do not worry about tomorrow`s troubles. Today has enough troubles of it`s
own.
"SEL" wrote in message
.. .
took it out of the frame to see if I could create a pattern fro her.
There
is a shadow of the design on the glass and on the paper backing it from
exposure from the sun. It doesn't look faded though.

This is a sign that "spacers" weren't used to keep the needlework away
from
the material. I inherited 250 year old samplers a few years back and had
them "museum mounted" by a framer used by the Royal Ontario Museum. When
we
took them out of their original frames we were amazed, and somewhat
horrified, to see the design etched into the glass - and significant
fading
was very evident when you saw the colour of the threads on the back of the
piece.

When we were trying to decide whether or not to frame under glass the
framers were adament that if they were framing it for the R.O.M. they
would
absolutely put it under glass - top quality U.V. protection glass,, with
adequate spacers. And so they are now framed - under glass, with spacers.
They did advise, mind you, that even with the top quality (and $$$ LOL )
glass, not to hang any needlework in direct sunlight.

Shannon L.

You`ve done it now, Rachel - my curiosity is working overtime already!
Thanks so much for whatever it is!

Hey - I`m actually WALKING again (not supposed to for another two weeks or
so, but it doesn`t hurt and I`m still using the frame - and only doing it a
LITTLE bit.) I just wish I could SIT comfortable - just can`t settle long
enough to stitch, yet and I`m suffering withdrawal symptoms. I really don`t
have much to do to finish my haunted house, and I want to get started on the
next one!

Pat P
--
Do not worry about tomorrow`s troubles. Today has enough troubles of it`s
own.

"Rachel Janzen" wrote in message
news:fD%kb.136248$6C4.96416@pd7tw1no...
Personally, I always frame under non-glare picture glass - it keeps it
clean, and helps prevent fading. After all, look at the dust that
settles
on your furniture and the dirt that collects on your windows! Some
prefer
not to put it under glass - after all it`s a matter of choice - but
after
all that work I prefer to protect it!

Pat P.
My great-aunt did a petit-point picture years ago - not sure how long, she
doesn't know either. Any ways, my grandma wants to cross stitch it, so I
took it out of the frame to see if I could create a pattern fro her. There
is a shadow of the design on the glass and on the paper backing it from
exposure from the sun. It doesn't look faded though.

Oh, and by the way Pat, I have some goodies to send your way as soon as I
have a couple of minutes to run to the post office.

Rachel

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 15:38:16 -0400, Meredith wrote:

Some people use laundry
detergent, others dish soap - they're mostly pretty much fine, but don't
use lemon-scented soap because that can tarnish metallic threads.

Meredith

I'm one of the folks who use dish soap, laundry detergent, and
sometimes plain shampoo. I didn't know about the lemon scented soap
tarnishing metallic threads so I'm glad that you mentioned it before I
made that mistake.

One thing I will add, don't use fabric softener on needlework that is
going to be framed because fabric softeners have oil in them.

Debra in VA

On 10/19/03 6:44 PM,"JL Amerson" posted:

I've been doing needlework for over 40 years and I've never had a problem
with washing a piece of needlework.

Wash it by hand, use Orvus, work the suds through the fabric, rinse it very
well, press the excess water out using white towels, press it while it's
still damp, and you should be just fine.

Adding on - definitely DO NOT dry clean it. We've had some near disasters
that customers have brought in when I was working at the LNS/Framers. The
dry cleaning solution caused some spotting on the background fabric, and we
could not get it out. Ended up in some very creative matting.

If you don't have Orvus, you can use a plain Ivory soap, type dishwashing
liquid, in cold water. Also, in particular if there are red threads, or deep
violets, put in about a 1/4 C of plain white vinegar with the soap and water
- before you put the piece in it. The vinegar helps to set the dye.
Swish it around, don't wring the piece. Do as the first person wrote. You
can hang it up to dry after you've rolled/pressed the piece in towels. Then
when just damp, you can iron (press) it dry, from the wrong side. Don't let
the iron rest on metallic threads, or any buttons, charms.

Glass is between you and your framer. Where it'll be, etc. Personal
preference. If you're going to mat it, personally, I think it looks better
under glass (and make sure if it's not matted, but glassed the framer uses
spacers so the glass isn't on the fabric). If you're not matting it, what
many framers do is slightly pad the back of the piece, and then stretch it.
I like this look very much, as well. Whatever works for you.

Good luck, and congrats on finishing,
Ellice



"Isee" wrote in message
...
Hi everyone, this is a call for your expert assistance.

I am in the process of completing my 1st counted cross stitch project
(done
on cream Aida 14 count) and despite my best endeavours, it has become a
bit
grubby through the constant handling necessary to work the picture.
Is it OK to wash my masterpiece? Are there secrets to this so that the
dye
in the colours of the thread don't run? Would it be better to have it
professionally laundered or dry cleaned?

On 10/20/03 7:40 PM,"aeromom" posted:


"Pat Porter" wrote in message
*snip*

Personally, I always frame under non-glare picture glass - it keeps it
clean, and helps prevent fading. After all, look at the dust that settles
on your furniture and the dirt that collects on your windows! Some prefer
not to put it under glass - after all it`s a matter of choice - but after
all that work I prefer to protect it!

I like to frame under glass also. I started doing this before I knew it was
not acceptable to everyone.
It protects it and I feel like that in 20 years the piece will be as clean
as the day I framed it.

Me, too. Though I have a couple of pieces that have large charms on them
which aren't under glass. One went to a show, and had to be un-glassed
anyhow. But, I'm careful where it is.

Surprised that you use the non-glare glass. I like the look of it, but in
the shop, our UV protective glass comes both in Non-Glare (Anti-reflective)
and regular. Simlarly, the non-glare isn't necessarily the UV protective
conservation glass. The non-glare can sometimes slightly blur the image - so
for very detail work - like framing a lacework piece, or some very fine work
- the shop owner (great framer) usually recommends clear glass. But, we have
small samples of the glass types, and can lay them on the piece while at the
"pick your framing" layout table. But, you might have some different
standards at your shop in the UK.

ellice

On 10/21/03 8:47 AM,"SEL" posted:

took it out of the frame to see if I could create a pattern fro her. There
is a shadow of the design on the glass and on the paper backing it from
exposure from the sun. It doesn't look faded though.

This is a sign that "spacers" weren't used to keep the needlework away from
the material. I inherited 250 year old samplers a few years back and had
them "museum mounted" by a framer used by the Royal Ontario Museum. When we
took them out of their original frames we were amazed, and somewhat
horrified, to see the design etched into the glass - and significant fading
was very evident when you saw the colour of the threads on the back of the
piece.

When we were trying to decide whether or not to frame under glass the
framers were adament that if they were framing it for the R.O.M. they would
absolutely put it under glass - top quality U.V. protection glass,, with
adequate spacers. And so they are now framed - under glass, with spacers.
They did advise, mind you, that even with the top quality (and $$$ LOL )
glass, not to hang any needlework in direct sunlight.

The LNS I work in occassionally does a lot of framing and conservation work
for some small museums. And there is an Antique Needlework boutique in the
shop. It's amazing what we see when we take apart some of the old pieces
from their original frames. Even pieces framed 20 years, or 10 years ago,
may have transferred to the glass if not framed with spacers.

You did the smart thing, to protect your treasure. We are very carful with
the true antique pieces, they are frequently framed by us stitching them
down (gently) onto muslin covered conservation foam-core. Then you can see
the margins, and we're note stretching the fragile piece.

It's a good thing to remember to have your pieces under glass opened, and
the glass cleaned, etc, after about 10-20 years - depending on the
environment it's been in.

Enjoy your treasure.
ellice

On 10/21/03 12:30 PM,"Pat Porter" posted:

If you use Matt board you won`t need spacers, of course, as the board -
particularly if you use multiple matts - acts as a spacer. Make sure you
seal the back well, though, to try to keep TINY black beasties out. Or maybe
you only get them in England? I don`t know if they actually do any harm, but
better safe than sorry!

Good quality paper sealing the back is a nice, and important thing that a
good framer should do. Tiny beasties come out here, as well, along with the
dust.
ellice

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:26:36 -0500, Ellice wrote:

Also, in particular if there are red threads, or deep
violets, put in about a 1/4 C of plain white vinegar with the soap and water
- before you put the piece in it. The vinegar helps to set the dye.
This is not always so. It depends upon the dye whether vinegar is a
successful mordant. IIRC, DMC is now saying not to use vinegar; you
may get an effect you don't want!
Darla
Sacred cows make great hamburgers.

Non-glare glass is not smooth on one side; if you will touch it you
can feel it. That non-smooth surface is what breaks up the light to
make the glass not glare. But it is achieved by etching with acid and
no matter what is done to try to remove it, it can't all be taken off.
I was told that the acid remaining on the glass will emit harmful
fumes that can damage needlework over time. And the smooth side is on
the outside so the etched side is always facing the needlework. I
have never used it so I have no personal experience of this, but I
have heard this from more than one source, including my framer who has
had conservation framing training and experience framing antique
samplers and other old treasures. Just a word to be careful! If you
really love it (which I don't - the light is so diffused it grays the
colors of the stitching out) go ahead and use it if you have to, but
be sure you take everything apart every so often and rewash the piece.
I would *never* use it on an antique or something I valued highly,
personally! HTH someone a little bit! Paula B.



Surprised that you use the non-glare glass. I like the look of it, but in
the shop, our UV protective glass comes both in Non-Glare (Anti-reflective)
and regular. Simlarly, the non-glare isn't necessarily the UV protective
conservation glass. The non-glare can sometimes slightly blur the image - so
for very detail work - like framing a lacework piece, or some very fine work
- the shop owner (great framer) usually recommends clear glass. But, we have
small samples of the glass types, and can lay them on the piece while at the
"pick your framing" layout table. But, you might have some different
standards at your shop in the UK.

ellice

It`s amazing, Ellice, but although we`ve always used best quality sealing,
they STILL manage to get in on some things even though we seal immediately.
I wonder whether a light squirt of fly-spray around the back, and allowed to
dry before applying the sealing paper would be a good idea. It might also
depend on the time of year you frame the item, I suppose.

Pat P

--
Do not worry about tomorrow`s troubles. Today has enough troubles of it`s
own.
"Ellice" wrote in message
...
On 10/21/03 12:30 PM,"Pat Porter" posted:

If you use Matt board you won`t need spacers, of course, as the board -
particularly if you use multiple matts - acts as a spacer. Make sure
you
seal the back well, though, to try to keep TINY black beasties out. Or
maybe
you only get them in England? I don`t know if they actually do any harm,
but
better safe than sorry!

Good quality paper sealing the back is a nice, and important thing that a
good framer should do. Tiny beasties come out here, as well, along with
the
dust.
ellice