Sweatshirt jacket

Does anyone know of a website with instructions for cutting up and
quilting a sweatshirt. I think I know what I am doing, but not
completely sure (the story of my life!)

I dont really want to buy a pattern as I would rather make up my own
design. I have tried Googling, but don't think I have used the right
combination of words - I just get lists of classes (too far to
travel!) or applique kits.

Any pointers in the right direct, or handy hints would be appreciated.

Sally

1) You'll need a seam riper. There is a special one out there just for
serged seam ripping. It is WAY better than a regular ripper and goes much
quicker. Looks like a little sickle.

2) You'll need a sweatshirt one or two sizes larger than the final intended
size. They shrink up a bit. The sweatshirt must have set in sleeves and not
raglan sleeves. Do a google search to see the difference, but the short of
it is a seam goes out from the neck along the shoulder (set in) and not down
from the neck to the armpits (raglan).

3) Remove the cuffs and collar and waist band using the special ripper.

4) Find the exact vertical middle of the front and cut from the waist to the
neck on this middle vertical line. This creates the front opening.

5) Use the ripper to release the seams along the under side of the sleeves
and along the shoulder so the sleeves come all the way free from the main
jacket unit. Mark the left and right sleeves.

6) This is optional. I find it easier to work with three pieces (two fronts
and a back), but you could leave it all one piece. If you like three pieces,
on each side cut up from the waist to the where the armpit would be. If you
did it right you'll look like you have two vest fronts and a vest back.
Release the seams along the shoulders.

7) The flip and sew method works great with this, applique, etc. Cover the
pieces as desired.

8) Once all covered rejoin the front sides to the back piece at the
shoulders only. Not at the sides yet. Lay the giant unit out flat.

9) Rejoin the sleeves. It is easy to line them up while the unit is flat.
Make sure you have the right sleeve on the right side!

10) Starting at a cuff rejoin the sleeve and when you get to the armpit
continue down to the waist rejoining the front side with the back side.
Repeat for other sleeve and side.

11) Use bias binding (for the stretchy give) to bind. Start at an
inconspicuous spot and continue all the way around the jacket until you
return to the spot you started. Likewise bind the cuffs.

A note on rejoined seams. Depends on the look you are going for. If you are
hiding all the seams on the inside, use a serger or a zig zag stitch out
over the edges to eliminate fraying. For a more polished look have the
joined seams face out, press them open, and then use a narrow strip of
fabric topstitched down to cover the seams. It adds a nice design element to
the outside and makes the inside just as neat! If you are going for the
later look topstitch down the strips at each seam rejoining. Don't wait
until the end!

Hope this helps. I used this method on both the jackets in my Webshots album
(in my sig in my Wearables folder).
Melissa in NJ

--
Pics of My Quilts:
http://community.webshots.com/user/quiltngryhndlady

Quilt Something for Yourself!
--
Remove STOPCRAP to reply
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"Sally Swindells" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know of a website with instructions for cutting up and
quilting a sweatshirt. I think I know what I am doing, but not
completely sure (the story of my life!)

I dont really want to buy a pattern as I would rather make up my own
design. I have tried Googling, but don't think I have used the right
combination of words - I just get lists of classes (too far to
travel!) or applique kits.

Any pointers in the right direct, or handy hints would be appreciated.

Sally

holy smokes, Melissa,
i had no idea you had to unpick that much.
i have a sweatshirt earmarked for covering but thought all i had to do was
cut up the middle, cover the whole thing with cotton blocks, pieces,
whatever, then bind the edge and add someway to close it down the front.

eeeeeeeeeek, what will happen if i dont do it your way?
i was thinking i could even increase the size if need be by adding wherever
i needed and using some batting behind the additions to bulk it out like the
sweatshirt, then maybe lining the whole thing..
oh dear. seems like i might have more work on my hands than i thought.
no hurry though, i'll just keep considering this project for a while.
jeanne
--
san-fran at ihug dot co dot nz
nzlstar on yahoo msg'r
http://community.webshots.com/user/nzlstar


"Melissa in NJ" wrote...
1) You'll need a seam riper. There is a special one out there just for
serged seam ripping. It is WAY better than a regular ripper and goes much
quicker. Looks like a little sickle.

2) You'll need a sweatshirt one or two sizes larger than the final
intended
size. They shrink up a bit. The sweatshirt must have set in sleeves and
not
raglan sleeves. Do a google search to see the difference, but the short of
it is a seam goes out from the neck along the shoulder (set in) and not
down
from the neck to the armpits (raglan).

3) Remove the cuffs and collar and waist band using the special ripper.

4) Find the exact vertical middle of the front and cut from the waist to
the
neck on this middle vertical line. This creates the front opening.

5) Use the ripper to release the seams along the under side of the sleeves
and along the shoulder so the sleeves come all the way free from the main
jacket unit. Mark the left and right sleeves.

6) This is optional. I find it easier to work with three pieces (two
fronts
and a back), but you could leave it all one piece. If you like three
pieces,
on each side cut up from the waist to the where the armpit would be. If
you
did it right you'll look like you have two vest fronts and a vest back.
Release the seams along the shoulders.

7) The flip and sew method works great with this, applique, etc. Cover the
pieces as desired.

8) Once all covered rejoin the front sides to the back piece at the
shoulders only. Not at the sides yet. Lay the giant unit out flat.

9) Rejoin the sleeves. It is easy to line them up while the unit is flat.
Make sure you have the right sleeve on the right side!

10) Starting at a cuff rejoin the sleeve and when you get to the armpit
continue down to the waist rejoining the front side with the back side.
Repeat for other sleeve and side.

11) Use bias binding (for the stretchy give) to bind. Start at an
inconspicuous spot and continue all the way around the jacket until you
return to the spot you started. Likewise bind the cuffs.

A note on rejoined seams. Depends on the look you are going for. If you
are
hiding all the seams on the inside, use a serger or a zig zag stitch out
over the edges to eliminate fraying. For a more polished look have the
joined seams face out, press them open, and then use a narrow strip of
fabric topstitched down to cover the seams. It adds a nice design element
to
the outside and makes the inside just as neat! If you are going for the
later look topstitch down the strips at each seam rejoining. Don't wait
until the end!

Hope this helps. I used this method on both the jackets in my Webshots
album
(in my sig in my Wearables folder).
Melissa in NJ
Pics of My Quilts:
http://community.webshots.com/user/quiltngryhndlady
Quilt Something for Yourself!


"Sally Swindells" wrote...
Does anyone know of a website with instructions for cutting up and
quilting a sweatshirt. I think I know what I am doing, but not
completely sure (the story of my life!)

I dont really want to buy a pattern as I would rather make up my own
design. I have tried Googling, but don't think I have used the right
combination of words - I just get lists of classes (too far to
travel!) or applique kits.

Any pointers in the right direct, or handy hints would be appreciated.
Sally

Thanks for giving the detailed instructions. I may try this later on.
Barbara in FL & SC

That is really wonderful Melissa, and piccies of your fabulous jacket
too! I've printed your instructions off and put them in 'Jacket' file.

I have bought the sweat shirt already - and its the right kind. Its an
almost new one from a charity shop and is a good make so I have got
quality without a high price - if it all goes pear shaped!

Of course its already been washed so is 'pre-shrunk'.

Been looking for an unusual jacket I like and as they don't seem to
exist - have to do my own!

Now have to decide on colours and design. Did you use the ordinary
cotton bias binding or the shiney satin one - wonder how the shiney
one biases.

Thanks a million; your piccies are all wonderful - all those
individual folders for each quilt - and, unlike mine, theyre all
finished! I have a box called 'Temari Balls", with 3 finished in it
and lots of threads and a folder of patterns that have been sitting
there for 4 years!)

Sunny spring morning (who could believe we had snow 10 days ago - now
its all green and daffodilly, so garden calls this morning.(keep it
under control early and its easier all year - I want to be able to sit
in it and sew this year) and I need a dose of sunshine to wake me up!

Sally

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 22:58:52 -0500, "Melissa in NJ"
wrote:

1) You'll need a seam riper. There is a special one out there just for
serged seam ripping. It is WAY better than a regular ripper and goes much
quicker. Looks like a little sickle.

2) You'll need a sweatshirt one or two sizes larger than the final intended
size. They shrink up a bit. The sweatshirt must have set in sleeves and not
raglan sleeves. Do a google search to see the difference, but the short of
it is a seam goes out from the neck along the shoulder (set in) and not down
from the neck to the armpits (raglan).

3) Remove the cuffs and collar and waist band using the special ripper.

4) Find the exact vertical middle of the front and cut from the waist to the
neck on this middle vertical line. This creates the front opening.

5) Use the ripper to release the seams along the under side of the sleeves
and along the shoulder so the sleeves come all the way free from the main
jacket unit. Mark the left and right sleeves.

6) This is optional. I find it easier to work with three pieces (two fronts
and a back), but you could leave it all one piece. If you like three pieces,
on each side cut up from the waist to the where the armpit would be. If you
did it right you'll look like you have two vest fronts and a vest back.
Release the seams along the shoulders.

7) The flip and sew method works great with this, applique, etc. Cover the
pieces as desired.

8) Once all covered rejoin the front sides to the back piece at the
shoulders only. Not at the sides yet. Lay the giant unit out flat.

9) Rejoin the sleeves. It is easy to line them up while the unit is flat.
Make sure you have the right sleeve on the right side!

10) Starting at a cuff rejoin the sleeve and when you get to the armpit
continue down to the waist rejoining the front side with the back side.
Repeat for other sleeve and side.

11) Use bias binding (for the stretchy give) to bind. Start at an
inconspicuous spot and continue all the way around the jacket until you
return to the spot you started. Likewise bind the cuffs.

A note on rejoined seams. Depends on the look you are going for. If you are
hiding all the seams on the inside, use a serger or a zig zag stitch out
over the edges to eliminate fraying. For a more polished look have the
joined seams face out, press them open, and then use a narrow strip of
fabric topstitched down to cover the seams. It adds a nice design element to
the outside and makes the inside just as neat! If you are going for the
later look topstitch down the strips at each seam rejoining. Don't wait
until the end!

Hope this helps. I used this method on both the jackets in my Webshots album
(in my sig in my Wearables folder).
Melissa in NJ

--
Pics of My Quilts:
http://community.webshots.com/user/quiltngryhndlady

Quilt Something for Yourself!
--
Remove STOPCRAP to reply

Those were wonderful instructions and I just might try that myself one day,
but do let me repeat, "Wash it first". Take it down to the stream and beat
it on the rocks or whatever method of laundering the final jacket will
receive.
Sometimes, sweatshirts do goofy things such as draw up to be 6 inches
long and 3 yards wide. If it's going to do something crazy on you, you want
it to happen before you have your time and heart invested in it.
When our first DGD was little, it was quite the rage to embellish tee
shirts at the hem and turn them in to really fun little dresses. It's a cute
way to make a dress without a lot of effort. It's still a good idea to wash
and dry those first too. Polly

"Sally Swindells" wrote in message
...
That is really wonderful Melissa, and piccies of your fabulous jacket
too! I've printed your instructions off and put them in 'Jacket' file.

I have bought the sweat shirt already - and its the right kind. Its an
almost new one from a charity shop and is a good make so I have got
quality without a high price - if it all goes pear shaped!

Of course its already been washed so is 'pre-shrunk'.

Been looking for an unusual jacket I like and as they don't seem to
exist - have to do my own!

Now have to decide on colours and design. Did you use the ordinary
cotton bias binding or the shiney satin one - wonder how the shiney
one biases.

Thanks a million; your piccies are all wonderful - all those
individual folders for each quilt - and, unlike mine, theyre all
finished! I have a box called 'Temari Balls", with 3 finished in it
and lots of threads and a folder of patterns that have been sitting
there for 4 years!)

Sunny spring morning (who could believe we had snow 10 days ago - now
its all green and daffodilly, so garden calls this morning.(keep it
under control early and its easier all year - I want to be able to sit
in it and sew this year) and I need a dose of sunshine to wake me up!

Sally

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 22:58:52 -0500, "Melissa in NJ"
wrote:

1) You'll need a seam riper. There is a special one out there just for
serged seam ripping. It is WAY better than a regular ripper and goes much
quicker. Looks like a little sickle.

2) You'll need a sweatshirt one or two sizes larger than the final
intended
size. They shrink up a bit. The sweatshirt must have set in sleeves and
not
raglan sleeves. Do a google search to see the difference, but the short
of
it is a seam goes out from the neck along the shoulder (set in) and not
down
from the neck to the armpits (raglan).

3) Remove the cuffs and collar and waist band using the special ripper.

4) Find the exact vertical middle of the front and cut from the waist to
the
neck on this middle vertical line. This creates the front opening.

5) Use the ripper to release the seams along the under side of the
sleeves
and along the shoulder so the sleeves come all the way free from the main
jacket unit. Mark the left and right sleeves.

6) This is optional. I find it easier to work with three pieces (two
fronts
and a back), but you could leave it all one piece. If you like three
pieces,
on each side cut up from the waist to the where the armpit would be. If
you
did it right you'll look like you have two vest fronts and a vest back.
Release the seams along the shoulders.

7) The flip and sew method works great with this, applique, etc. Cover
the
pieces as desired.

8) Once all covered rejoin the front sides to the back piece at the
shoulders only. Not at the sides yet. Lay the giant unit out flat.

9) Rejoin the sleeves. It is easy to line them up while the unit is flat.
Make sure you have the right sleeve on the right side!

10) Starting at a cuff rejoin the sleeve and when you get to the armpit
continue down to the waist rejoining the front side with the back side.
Repeat for other sleeve and side.

11) Use bias binding (for the stretchy give) to bind. Start at an
inconspicuous spot and continue all the way around the jacket until you
return to the spot you started. Likewise bind the cuffs.

A note on rejoined seams. Depends on the look you are going for. If you
are
hiding all the seams on the inside, use a serger or a zig zag stitch out
over the edges to eliminate fraying. For a more polished look have the
joined seams face out, press them open, and then use a narrow strip of
fabric topstitched down to cover the seams. It adds a nice design element
to
the outside and makes the inside just as neat! If you are going for the
later look topstitch down the strips at each seam rejoining. Don't wait
until the end!

Hope this helps. I used this method on both the jackets in my Webshots
album
(in my sig in my Wearables folder).
Melissa in NJ

--
Pics of My Quilts:
http://community.webshots.com/user/quiltngryhndlady

Quilt Something for Yourself!
--
Remove STOPCRAP to reply

You can eliminate some of the unpicking. If you want you can carefilly
cut away the cuffs, collars, and waistband. But if you use that tool I
mentioned it REALLY does go quickly. I learned how to make a sweatshirt
jecket in a guild workshop. We were sewing in no time...and we did all
the seam ripping and cutting in class.

As for doing it your way...there are no quilt police!!! The only
advantage to the way I outlined is that each piece is flat while you
are working with it.

Melissa

nzlstar wrote:
holy smokes, Melissa,
i had no idea you had to unpick that much.
i have a sweatshirt earmarked for covering but thought all i had to
do was
cut up the middle, cover the whole thing with cotton blocks, pieces,
whatever, then bind the edge and add someway to close it down the
front.

eeeeeeeeeek, what will happen if i dont do it your way?
i was thinking i could even increase the size if need be by adding
wherever
i needed and using some batting behind the additions to bulk it out
like the
sweatshirt, then maybe lining the whole thing..
oh dear. seems like i might have more work on my hands than i
thought.
no hurry though, i'll just keep considering this project for a while.
jeanne

For the purple I made binding strips in one of the fabrics I used in
the jacket. All cotton. Easy to work with. For the blue jacket all the
dark blue is moleskin. For the accent strips and the binding I used the
backside of the moleskin which is shiny. That was kinda tough to work
with as it can be slippery...so some of the binding on that jacket
could be a little better.

Melissa in NJ

One other tip! If you are not doing a lining and want the inside of
your sweatshirt jacket to be smooth rather than the fuzzy inside, work
with all the pieces "inside out". Meaning what was the front left
becomes the front right and so on. When you are covering the pieces
cover the fuzzy sides not the smooth sides. then reassemble. My purple
jacket is fuzzy on the inside because I wasn't given this tip until too
late. My blue jacket is smooth on the inside. MUCH nicer!

Melissa in NJ

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 22:58:52 -0500, "Melissa in NJ" wrote:

Hope this helps. I used this method on both the jackets in my Webshots album
(in my sig in my Wearables folder).
Melissa in NJ

--
Pics of My Quilts:
http://community.webshots.com/user/quiltngryhndlady


All I want is one that's split down the front that buttons closed, but
I don't know how to make the flaps for the buttons.
Debra in VA