PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Hand Tailored Jacket

a écrit dans le message de news:
...

This hand tailored jacket is my most ambitious project to date. I have
been pretty much obsessed with it for the past 3 months.

ja

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com


What absolutly brilliant work. Much aplause and admiration.

Claire in Montréal, France.
http://claireowenperso.free.fr

wrote in message
oups.com...


I can't imagine wearing trousers made from this fabric so I guess I
will have to stick with jackets and coats.

Trousers can be fully lined...??? ;-)

I would be interested in the titles of the books that you found the
most helpful. Perhaps we could compare notes.

Along with most everything else, all my sewing books are in the
disaster area I call my sewing room. Until I finally get everything
re-organized, I can't lay my hands on the box full of books. I
*think* the one I liked best for tailoring techniques was put out by
Vogue, but I know I had several I consulted pretty regularly.

I have Poulin, CTT, Hostek and a Singer book. They all have their
use
and their worts.

I used the formula for drafting the pattern in Poulin,

I haven't ever found the need to draft patterns, although I don't
think I've followed a commercial pattern exactly as written since abut
5th grade...fifty-five years ago. :-\

Beverly

Jack Schmidling wrote:
BEI Design wrote:

I haven't ever found the need to draft patterns, although I don't
think I've followed a commercial pattern exactly as written....


I think if you spend the next few weeks trying to find a commercial
pattern for a man's suit coat you will understand why I drafted one. It
was not by choice but having done it, I will probably never have to buy
a pattern again.

js

Did you look at this one:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1

I found the Vogue suit pattern very good when I made it a few years
back, and it needed only a minor adjustment for my husband's very square
shoulders.
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=2

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Great job, Marilyn! I taught myself some basic knitting last winter
and well, let's say I have passed the knitting a dish rag stage!
Those purls beat me!

Jack Schmidling wrote:
Kate Dicey wrote:

Did you look at this one:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1



As a matter of fact, I purchased that pattern and made a muslin up to a
point. At the time I was trying to make a heavy winter coat and decided
this was going the wrong way. After a diligent hunt I found a pea coat
pattern that seemed more appropriate.

After finishing that, I wanted to go classic hand tailoring and the
Vogue didn't seem to fit. In retrospect, I suppose I could use some of
the basic pieces but didn't enough about how to integrate it into hand
tailoring.

As a point of interest, I am working on a Winter coat for my wife based
on a old coat she has but last night I dug out Vogue get some ideas on
the interfacing and facing.

It is not quite clear what to do with the interfacing for this. Do I
even need it for this sort of coat?

js


For a classic wool ladies tailored coat, yes. BUT!! You don't need to
do all the front interfacing layers that you do with a man's coat or
jacket. Just use one layer down the fronts, pad stitched like you would
for men's coats & jackets, and really it only needs to cover the
button/buttonhole area, and round the base of the collar, so make it
about 4" wide, and shaped round the lapels. Do interface the upper
collar in exactly the same way as a man's collar, but remember that
rather than a fitted felt under collar, you will be sewing a top fabric
one in by machine. You can join the under collar with a centre back
seam if you need to cut it in two pars. Cut it a smigeon smaller than
the top collar, and ease the two together as you sew. This will ensure
that the top collar wraps round slightly to the under side, giving a
better looking edge. Grade all the seams carefully round the collar,
and when you turn it, be very careful NOT to poke it through at the
corners! Do use/make good shoulder pads: they don't need to be thick,
but they do need to be there. The sleeve head will be supported in
exactly the same way as a man's sleeve head if they are traditional
set-in sleeves.

Ladies coats traditionally have bound buttonholes. They look fantastic
done properly. I find a wee bit of fusible interfacing for each one
helps enormously!

I'd send you some pix, only I can't use the scanner at the moment!

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Jack Schmidling wrote:

I will rise to the challenge just that big spool of silk buttonhole
twist that I bought.

js


Silk buttonhole twist will never go to waste. There are so many uses.
Or you could just send it to me. ;-)
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth

Jack Schmidling wrote:

Kate Dicey wrote:

I see on one of my patterns, I think it was the peacoat, that the
interfacing was attached to the facing instead of front. Does this
make sense?



Yes, but with the bound buttonhole construction it is easier on the
fabric.


Roger but I don't think that addressed the basic question re. the
interfacing on the facing vs the front. The former is simpler because I
can use the facing pattern for the interfacing.

You still can: just apply it to the fabric! You need the
interfacing on the outer layer rather than the facing because most of
the construction of the buttonhole is on the facing. The Reader's
Digest Complete Book of Sewing is one of many that has good, clear
instructions with good illustrations.

Haven't done that yet and I was planning of hand worked.


Bound buttonholes look so dressy and take no more work. Worth the
effort. And it will be a new skill for you. The way you are going,
you won't have any problems, but it will be nice to have another
process at your finger tips!


I will rise to the challenge just that big spool of silk buttonhole
twist that I bought.

Use it on other more appropriate projects!

js



--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Jack--

I am new to this site, so maybe you have been sharing your 'journey'
with wool and sewing for awhile, but I have to say that I loved viewing
ALL your photos on the blog.
I have taken a hand to weaving too, and it is really a major
undertaking. Your own story is inspiring, but few would be able to
realize success. In fact, I have forwarded the site address to some
college profs who should be sharing this with their classes: textiles
and such.
Aboout tailoring: You mention tailoring books. The Singer sewing
library book on tailoring in the best. Also, the Fairchild Pub. books
on tailoring are considered the main resource for training in the
industry.
Out here in S. Calif. we actually have tailors, trained in Asia
(Vietnam carries the French tailoring methods, then there's Hong Kong
with British tailoring etc.) as well as Central America, and Russia
(French techniques here again).
L.A. Trade Tech college teaches men's tailoring, and our community
colleges cover women's tailoring in the least. Here in L.A. we have a
store called: Levine Bros. located in Burbank, (they may have a web
site-?), and you might be able to get them to send supplies if you
can't find what you need else where.
As for working on your own, nothing is better than taking apart a hand
tailored jacket or second best--a manufactured jacket (provided by a
thrift shop) and the same goes for pattern drafting--start with a coat
that fits you and bust it apart to copy the pattern (knock it off).
When we teach tailoring, we have several jackets that are in various
stages of dis-manteling to use as guides to construction and pattern
design.
Good luck with your next project.
--Jennifer




wrote:
This hand tailored jacket is my most ambitious project to date. I have
been pretty much obsessed with it for the past 3 months.

ja

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com

Great page and astronomy photo's! Nice job on the jacket.
John