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Tension swatch?



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 31st 05, 07:33 PM
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Default Tension swatch?

Hi! how do you make a tension swatch for Brother machine 830, if you
want to knit a weaving pattern, I mean how you calculate rows and
stitches., from right side I can not see when a stitch ending, from
wrong side? is here a rule? Same question apply to a lace pattern.
Thank you in advance from a complete newbie. I am trying to learn by
books, not to much progress so far and of course I want to knit
something nice.

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  #2  
Old May 31st 05, 08:24 PM
Helen Halla Fleischer
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| On 31 May 2005 11:33:30 -0700, wrote:

Hi! how do you make a tension swatch for Brother machine 830, if you
want to knit a weaving pattern, I mean how you calculate rows and
stitches., from right side I can not see when a stitch ending, from
wrong side? is here a rule? Same question apply to a lace pattern.
Thank you in advance from a complete newbie. I am trying to learn by
books, not to much progress so far and of course I want to knit
something nice.


I was taught to cast on wider than the measured area, knit 10 rows Main
Color, 2 rows contrast. Change back to main then knit for, what is it? 20
rows. At that point, stop. pull out the marked stitches on the needle
guide, hand knit a stitch on each one using a short length of contrast and
leaving it in working position. Hang a clothes pin on the tails, then knit
20 more rows and do that again. Then knit the last 20 rows of pattern
stitch, change to CC for 2 rows, change back to MC, knit 5 rows, make one
transfer eyelet for each number of the tension setting, making a gap and
adding eyelets for fractional settings. Return those needles to WP, knit 5
more rows, then bind off.

Measuring when you can see a strong contrast is much easier, and having a
couple of places to measure lets you get an average. The eyelets mean you
can't lose track of what the tension setting was; it's a permanent part of
the swatch.

Helen "Halla" Fleischer, Fantasy & Fiber Artist
http://home.covad.net/~drgandalf/halla/
Balticon Art Program Coordinator http://www.balticon.org
  #3  
Old May 31st 05, 08:52 PM
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Thank you, I was thinking about this method, But I was always doing a
stitch count ( for hand knitting) I guess I should start to learn some
new tricks.

  #4  
Old May 31st 05, 11:49 PM
Carole
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A further point. you should knit a minimum of60 rows for better accuracy,
(exactly 60 if using the green ruler) and don't forget to let it rest before
measuring or wash if the yarn is likely to shrink
wrote in message
oups.com...
Thank you, I was thinking about this method, But I was always doing a
stitch count ( for hand knitting) I guess I should start to learn some
new tricks.



  #5  
Old June 1st 05, 02:40 AM
Helen Halla Fleischer
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| On Tue, 31 May 2005 22:49:14 GMT, "Carole" wrote:

A further point. you should knit a minimum of60 rows for better accuracy,
(exactly 60 if using the green ruler) and don't forget to let it rest before
measuring or wash if the yarn is likely to shrink
wrote in message
roups.com...
Thank you, I was thinking about this method, But I was always doing a
stitch count ( for hand knitting) I guess I should start to learn some
new tricks.


Right. I just break it up in groups of 20 because of using more than one
set of width markers. Brother counts on it being 60 rows for its white
knit leader ruler as well. The measured area between marked stitches is 40
stitches wide, but you cast on 60, so you're measuring in the middle where
it's hopefully less affected by curl distortions. There are little ^ marks
on the needle bed at 21L and 21R which are the stitches you mark with the
hand-knit CC stitch.

Helen "Halla" Fleischer, Fantasy & Fiber Artist
http://home.covad.net/~drgandalf/halla/
Balticon Art Program Coordinator http://www.balticon.org
 




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