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Polyclay weakness



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 27th 07, 07:54 AM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Dicon[_2_]
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Posts: 22
Default Polyclay weakness

I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes,
then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature
right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of
Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not
tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things


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  #2  
Old March 27th 07, 01:25 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
PenguinTrax
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Posts: 16
Default Polyclay weakness

For strength and thinness, I'd try mixing Premo with your Fimo
classic, using Premo by itself or better yet, Katoclay.

Barbara

On Mar 27, 2:54 am, "Dicon" wrote:
I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes,
then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature
right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of
Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not
tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things



  #3  
Old March 27th 07, 02:39 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Georgia
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Posts: 181
Default Polyclay weakness

Hi, Jackdsw--

The other variable besides curing temperature and brand is conditioning. Hte
clay has to be "exercised"--the equivalent of running it through a pasta
machine about 15 times--or enough to mix colors thoroughly--to develop the
flexibility. Cured unconditioned clay is very brittle.

Georgia
www.georgiamorgan.net

"Dicon" wrote in message
...
I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick

polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat

shapes,
then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature
right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of
Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not
tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available

here.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things




  #4  
Old March 27th 07, 04:30 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Dicon[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Polyclay weakness


"Georgia" wrote in message
m...
Hi, Jackdsw--

The other variable besides curing temperature and brand is conditioning.
Hte
clay has to be "exercised"--the equivalent of running it through a pasta
machine about 15 times--or enough to mix colors thoroughly--to develop the
flexibility. Cured unconditioned clay is very brittle.

Georgia
www.georgiamorgan.net

Thanks for BOTH the above tips. I didn't realise that the conditioning had
any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting"
for a week to be cooked?
Anyway, I think I will need to look out a pasta machine. I did have one
once, but only for pasta but it was a ***** to clean so threw it away in the
bin.
Oh Well....live and learn.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things
my addy is



  #5  
Old March 27th 07, 07:07 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
PenguinTrax
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 16
Default Polyclay weakness

Thanks for BOTH the above tips. I didn't realise that the conditioning had
any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting"
for a week to be cooked?
Anyway, I think I will need to look out a pasta machine. I did have one
once, but only for pasta but it was a ***** to clean so threw it away in the
bin.
Oh Well....live and learn.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things
my addy is


I don't know if this is an option for you, but Mona Kissel is offering
a modification to the Atlas 150 that makes cleaning the PM a breeze. I
haven't done this, yet, but all reviews (from people I trust) have
been 100% positive:

http://www.monakissel.com/toolspasta.html


  #6  
Old March 27th 07, 09:12 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Georgia
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 181
Default Polyclay weakness


"Dicon" wrote in message
...

snip
I didn't realise that the conditioning had
any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been

"waiting"
for a week to be cooked?


I've never read that it did, but from (sad) personal experience, I'd say
that I think it does. I try not to let things even wait overnight. Which
means I should get down to my studio NOW!

Georgia


  #7  
Old March 27th 07, 10:16 PM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Dicon[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Polyclay weakness


"Georgia" wrote in message
m...

"Dicon" wrote in message
...

snip
I didn't realise that the conditioning had
any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been

"waiting"
for a week to be cooked?


I've never read that it did, but from (sad) personal experience, I'd say
that I think it does. I try not to let things even wait overnight. Which
means I should get down to my studio NOW!


sigh
Thanks for that.
We live and learn.
Back to the drawing board.
thinks )
I wonder if I bashed the stuff with a mallet a few times, do you think that
would condition it?
more thinks
Probably have to remove Fimo from hair and surrounding vicinity!
OK. Will lookout a pasta machine, they do surface now and then in Charity /
Thrift Shops.
Until then it's muscle power.
Thanks for the feed-back.

--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things
my addy is




  #8  
Old March 29th 07, 02:56 AM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Martha
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13
Default Polyclay weakness


I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat
shapes, then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the
temperature right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be
another kind of Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy
once, yet not tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available
here.


You don't want to try Sculpey III because it is the weakest of all the
colored clays, and original Sculpey, used by modelers, is even weaker than
Sculpey III. If you can find Sculpey in the UK you may be able to find Premo
as it's made by the same company, Polyform. Premo is much stronger.

You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large,
because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're making
something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to hang on a
wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger and/or has a
structural function there are a number of materials you could use, depending
on size and purpose. How big are they and what are you doing with your
pieces?


  #9  
Old March 29th 07, 08:30 AM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Dicon[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Polyclay weakness


"Martha" nospam @ nospam.com wrote in message
news:41FOh.1203$NO.862@trndny05...

I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick
polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat
shapes,

SNIP
You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large,
because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're
making something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to
hang on a wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger
and/or has a structural function there are a number of materials you could
use, depending on size and purpose. How big are they and what are you
doing with your pieces?

They are small crucifixes approx four inches by three inches. The thickness
would be one quarter inch. I have made the initial few from 4mm wood which
is both light and strong, so I know the design works. They are aimed at the
"Goth" market, and so far, the response from the few shops that have seen
the design are favourable. I cook the Fimo in the gas oven and as I have
used an oven thermometer, I guess the temperature & timing is correct.

I will look around the web for Premo and try a design in that. Thanks for
the tip.
Still looking for a second hand Pasta machine.


--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things.


  #10  
Old April 1st 07, 04:45 AM posted to rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Martha
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13
Default Polyclay weakness


"Dicon" wrote in message
...

"Martha" nospam @ nospam.com wrote in message
news:41FOh.1203$NO.862@trndny05...

I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick
polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat
shapes,

SNIP
You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large,
because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're
making something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to
hang on a wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger
and/or has a structural function there are a number of materials you
could use, depending on size and purpose. How big are they and what are
you doing with your pieces?

They are small crucifixes approx four inches by three inches. The
thickness would be one quarter inch. I have made the initial few from 4mm
wood which is both light and strong, so I know the design works. They are
aimed at the "Goth" market, and so far, the response from the few shops
that have seen the design are favourable. I cook the Fimo in the gas oven
and as I have used an oven thermometer, I guess the temperature & timing
is correct.

I will look around the web for Premo and try a design in that. Thanks for
the tip.
Still looking for a second hand Pasta machine.


--
Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things.


If you're making the "base" out of flat wood it should be strong enough to
support the clay as long as it's well conditioned, and especially as you've
got Premo now. Are you using glue to tack the unbaked clay onto the wood?
If you're not I would definitely recommend brushing on a thin, even layer
and laying down the base clay while the glue is still tacky, and then
rolling or braying the clay over the wood to get a good, tight bond and make
sure all the air bubbles are gone. I don't know what brands are available in
UK but most of the white PVA glues they sell for fabric crafts are good for
clay. You can go here http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Diluent.htm
for more info. Click on "White" glues at top of page. Try and find something
labeled as nontoxic.

If you're not already doing so it would probably help to put a sealer coat
or two of a clay-friendly varnish over finished product. It does add
strength as well as protect the finish.

I have thrown out a few oven thermometers for being wildly inaccurate, so
make sure you double check yours.

Good luck with your projects. Hope you can sell a bunch.

Martha



 




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