If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation
"DKat" ) writes:
"Elaine Stutt" wrote in message ... Elaine Stutt ) writes: "DKat" ) writes: So heres the deal - most of the glazes I tested worked just fine except for the lips where at least half of them simply flaked off. I hate to put these pots through any more stress so I'm going to try painting on the lips a very thin coat. Do I do this by thinning down the glaze or what? Do I add corn syrup to the glaze and if so in what ratio? Thanks, Donna snip Finally found the notes. For crawling on the lip, it suggests a thinner glaze application. For flaking it doesn't mention lips but for minor flaking: if the flaking happens when touched, add 3 percent binder; if it flakes before it's touched add more. Binder I guess means gum, possibly sugar. That's from Dennis Parks book on raw glazing. snip- Thank you for hunting that information down for me! I just got Dennis Parks' book and have been reading it. It is useful of course but it has conflicting information and doesn't seem to cover the issues that I'm having. I've found it useful but confusing as there are adjustsment that can be made to the glaze or to the clay body. As I buy premixed clay, I'm not going to change the clay body but I have found myself reading in the wrong section when trying to figure things out. I like both books as they have pictures of large pieces being raw glazed. One of my problems is my studio is pretty small and I don't have a lot of space to put pans and bowls and trays to trap glaze as its poured over pieces. Strict discipline and focus might help ;-) I have decided that I probably glazed too late in the leather hard state because the glaze is very solid except for the lips. Yeah, it mentions that the lips and handles may need to have some water sponged on as they may dry first. Even if the glazes stays on to go into the firing, the lip is where some glazes for bisque won't work. I have been trying any number of things to recover those pots, which has been a learning experience in itself. I really do like the feel of doing things this way. I think it is going to take awhile to develop the glazes I want and to learn the skills but it is definitely the way I want to go. Where I feel that raw glazing/single firing has been most succesful for me is in leather hard pieces with carved and painted on decoration. When I've finished decorating the piece, the glazing is also finished. I might pour the glaze inside but paint it in layers outside. Thanks again. I'm really hoping to get this kiln fired soon so I can see if there are any successes. Donna Not all glazes work as well on raw pieces but some pieces should work, I'd think. Good luck Elaine |
Ads |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
number of facets | m4816k | Jewelry | 7 | March 26th 05 09:59 PM |
Problems reconciling controller temp to cone: way over fired! | tony | Pottery | 3 | June 8th 04 10:09 PM |
Floating Blue and pinging | CNB | Pottery | 5 | May 10th 04 04:01 PM |
FAQ:Intro to rec.crafts.pottery | Mishy Lowe | Pottery | 0 | July 18th 03 06:05 AM |