underpinning...

I am working on two bridesmaids outfits, bodices and skirts. quite
straightforward except...the size 10 bridesmaid is in Azerbajhan and returns
the week before the wedding, have already fitted a muslin with no
problems,... and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup, and the bodices
are strapless!
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra (what a
hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good humour) but
now we need to give it some body....
I await your assistance,
thanks, Liz.

Liz Cork wrote:

I am working on two bridesmaids outfits, bodices and skirts. quite
straightforward except...the size 10 bridesmaid is in Azerbajhan and returns
the week before the wedding, have already fitted a muslin with no
problems,... and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup, and the bodices
are strapless!
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra (what a
hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good humour) but
now we need to give it some body....
I await your assistance,
thanks, Liz.


I had a similar thing with my pink bridesmaids. The best solution for
us was for her to buy a strapless boned corset-like underpinning to wear
under her top. If she does this, make sure it's one that comes down to
the hips and is fitted professionally, . Those waist length fashion
items will slip down, leaving her unsupported.

The trouble with making the top support her as a bra or corset might is
that it will look like a corset. Se what I did with mine by hitting the
URL below...
--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

How much "body" is required? Would a good starching do the job? I have
seen clear elastic straps on some of the teens around here, so they can have
the support of a bra, but wear the skimpy, braless styles. The straps are
still noticeable up close, and might shine for a camera flash (not good for
bridal photos), but you might be able to do something with that idea.

"Liz Cork" wrote in message
...
I am working on two bridesmaids outfits, bodices and skirts. quite
straightforward except...the size 10 bridesmaid is in Azerbajhan and
returns
the week before the wedding, have already fitted a muslin with no
problems,... and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup, and the
bodices
are strapless!
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra (what
a
hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good humour) but
now we need to give it some body....
I await your assistance,
thanks, Liz.

" Liz Cork wrote:
and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup, and the bodices
are strapless!

snip
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra
(what a
hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good humour)
but
now we need to give it some body....
I await your assistance,
thanks, Liz.

Then Kate said:
I had a similar thing with my pink bridesmaids. The best solution for
us was for her to buy a strapless boned corset-like underpinning to wear
under her top.
snip
The trouble with making the top support her as a bra or corset might is
that it will look like a corset. Se what I did with mine by hitting the



Liz,

I agree completely with Kate. I know some other folks that would say build
the bra into the dress. But with that much bust, she will need more
support. She needs a **good** strapless bra. Send her out to find one
before you do anything on her dress.

I would underline the fashion fabric for the bodice and put casings in for
regular boning. Then hide all that with the lining of the bodice. But I
would only do that for shaping. I would not trust that to support her.
When I do a strapless dress that way, I use some bias tape to make the
casings for the boning. I sew the bias tape (you can also use twill tape,
but it's easier to insert the boning in bias tape since it stretches) to the
seam allowance on either side of the seam. The underlining (I usually fuse
a light - medium weight interfacing to a woven fabric (broadcloth works
well) then treat that all as sew in interfacing) will give the fashion
fabric enough body to hide the boning. It won't be visible at all from the
outside. Once the lining is completed, the boning will be invisible on the
inside too.

If you find that the dress shifts and the bra is visible, you may want to
think about lingerie snaps. What I do in a case like this is sew a thread
loop to the bra, and a very small hook to the inside of the dress at the
corresponding spot. Then when she puts the dress on, she can hook it to the
bra at those spots.

Like I said, I do know some folks that would tell you to go ahead and build
the bra into the dress' bodice. IMO, I don't think that would work for a
girl with that size bust. You have enough stress knowing you have to do
final fittings and any alterations on the other bridesmaid within a week of
the wedding. Make this gal's dress as easy on yourself as possible.

Sharon

--
Remove NO SPAM and validate my address to reply.

"Never Try to Teach a Pig to Sing. It's a Waste of Time and It Just Annoys
the Pig."

underpinning...


Liz Cork wrote:
and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup, and the bodices
are strapless!
snip
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra
(what a hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good
humour) but now we need to give it some body....
thanks, Liz.

Kate said:
The best solution for us was for her to buy a strapless boned
corset-like underpinning to wear under her top.
snip
Sharon opines: Liz,
snip
needs more support. She needs a **good** strapless bra. Send her out
to find one before you do anything on her dress.
I would underline the fashion fabric for the bodice and put casings in
for regular boning. Then hide all that with the lining of the bodice.
But I would only do that for shaping. I would not trust that to support
her. When I do a strapless dress that way, I use some bias tape to make
the casings for the boning. I sew the bias tape (you can also use twill
tape, but it's easier to insert the boning in bias tape since it
stretches) to the seam allowance on either side of the seam. The
underlining (I usually fuse a light - medium weight interfacing to a
woven fabric (broadcloth works well) then treat that all as sew in
interfacing) will give the fashion fabric enough body to hide the
boning. It won't be visible at all from the outside. Once the lining is
completed, the boning will be invisible on the inside too.
If you find that the dress shifts and the bra is visible, you may want
to think about lingerie snaps. What I do in a case like this is sew a
thread loop to the bra, and a very small hook to the inside of the dress
at the corresponding spot. Then when she puts the dress on, she can hook
it to the bra at those spots.
Like I said, I do know some folks that would tell you to go ahead and
build the bra into the dress' bodice. IMO, I don't think that would work
for a girl with that size bust. You have enough stress knowing you have
to do final fittings and any alterations on the other bridesmaid within
a week of the wedding. Make this gal's dress as easy on yourself as
possible.
---
I use the same methods mentioned by Kate and Sharon, with one minor
exception--make it easier on yourself: buy the covered nylon/plastic
boning ready-made. It comes on a roll, can be purchased by-the-yard, and
is carried in the notions dept. of fabric stores. The cost, of course,
is passed along to the client.
(Note that the boning is sewn to the seams of the dress, not the
seams of the lining, where it might cause the lining to roll-out.)
Cea

wrote:


---
I use the same methods mentioned by Kate and Sharon, with one minor
exception--make it easier on yourself: buy the covered nylon/plastic
boning ready-made. It comes on a roll, can be purchased by-the-yard, and
is carried in the notions dept. of fabric stores. The cost, of course,
is passed along to the client.
(Note that the boning is sewn to the seams of the dress, not the
seams of the lining, where it might cause the lining to roll-out.)
Cea


If you look at my pink bridesmaid adventure, you will see that the
boning there was a solid nylon type with a cotton cover BONDED on, not
the Ridgeline woven stuff. Bit more support in the bonded type, and
easier to sew.
--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

I am working on two bridesmaids outfits, bodices and skirts. quite
straightforward except ...and the other bridesmaid wears a double j cup,
and the bodices
are strapless!
Suggestions please as to what fabric and boning to use to make a
'self-supporting' undergarment. I have made and fitted a calico bra (what
a
hoot, it looked so victorian, this girl takes her size in good humour) but
now we need to give it some body....

I'm not sure where you are located. I'm close to a JJ in US sizing, but
smaller in UK sizing. So your bridesmaid is either my size or a lot larger.
Either way she has my sympathy. The bride should be flogged for selecting a
strapless dress with this girl in mind. I have searched for a very long
time on both sides of the pond and Australian web sites and I have never
found a strapless bra this size, of any length, but generally you have more
options as the band sizes goes up, I wear a very small band size. I won't
say they don't exist, but the bridesmaid might be very frustrated looking
for one and you might waste valuable time.

I agree to make the bra/corset separate from the dress, but see if someone
can talk the bride into something sensible while there is still time. I
personally wouldn't want to be upstaged at my wedding by my bridesmaid
showing more than intended when the dress gives out. LOL.

I've seen those clear straps, and I can't believe they could support much
over a C cup. They are skinny, I refuse to wear a bra with anything less
than 1" (25mm) wide straps. Other wise I get painful (and ugly if visible)
red grooves in my shoulders where the straps dig in. And it might just look
worse than a regular white straps showing. IMO. If you go this route, make
a strap in a good width, not the pre-made versions that are about 1/4" (6
mm) wide. And don't make them out of elastic. I have never don't it, but
you might want to try cutting a strip of clear vinyl or something very close
to her flesh tone if you are worried about how they will show up with a
camera flash.

A few sites to visit for supplies and information:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/beautifulbras/ they do have a pattern drafting
service to copy an existing bra, don't know if they can turn a regular bra
into a strap less pattern. Her bra sewing book is very good.
http://www.sewsassy.com/ lots of fabric and findings. I personally like the
instructions included in Elan patterns for a regular strapped bra.
http://www.lafnmoon.com/victunder.htm largest bra pattern cup I have ever
found for smaller band size - this is a Victorian corset. Only to a 4DDD
(otherwise know at G US) so expect to have to scale it up. I have the
pattern, but haven't tried it yet. I've seen positive reviews of this
pattern.
http://sewing.about.com/cs/brassuch/ lots of links
http://www.bramakers.com/ lots of information on fabric types, also sells
material and findings. I think they also have a "pattern from a bra"
service.
http://www.corsetmaking.com/ corset supplies including the heavy fabric
traditionally used in corsets. And from a class I took with Susan Khalje -
the spiral steel boning is the best and it's easiest to buy the length
already cut to size instead of cutting it to length your self.
http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/ corset supplies, I'm sure there are lots of
others, I can't seem to find my corset links at the moment.
You might want to visit a gothic fashion site for corset information.

I think I'm glad I've never been anyone's bridesmaid.

Joy

Joy said it all:
....
I think I'm glad I've never been anyone's bridesmaid.

Yeah!!
--Karen M.

I'm only an F, but what I'd do in such circumstances is wear
my regular bra under a white camisole or dickey with a high,
lace-trimmed collar band.

Joy Beeson
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ -- needlework
http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ -- Writers' Exchange
joy beeson at earthlink dot net

I don't know about international shipping but Lane bryant does sell
removable and clear strapped bras both long lined and short. They also have
a full body shaper with removable straps.

Hope this helps.

Take care,

Vamptasia