Neck size

I finished a nice dress shirt only to find that I could not button the
top button.

What is the best way to increase the neck line about an inch?

Can I just make the center front a half inch wide on each side?

This was a practice shirt and I want to get it right before cutting my
hand woven linen.

js


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Jack Schmidling wrote:
I finished a nice dress shirt only to find that I could not button the
top button.

What is the best way to increase the neck line about an inch?

Can I just make the center front a half inch wide on each side?

This was a practice shirt and I want to get it right before cutting my
hand woven linen.

js


If the rest of the shirt fits well, just cut a new collar band with
enough ease to go round and button comfortably. Attach this to the neck
of the shirt a little further from the cut neck edge than the last one,
and see how it goes.

If you add fabric at the centre front, the whole front of the shirt
becomes wider, throwing things out further down. You may end up with it
too wide across the front chest and shoulders.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
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In article ,
Jack Schmidling wrote:

I finished a nice dress shirt only to find that I could not button the
top button.

What is the best way to increase the neck line about an inch?

Can I just make the center front a half inch wide on each side?

No. First, you'll need to fit the collar band around your neck for a
correct fit. This step is like the very first thing one should do
before making a shirt. You could buy a pattern with the correct neck
size for starters. Otherwise, you might want to compare your current
pattern's collar band/stand to one on a shirt that fits you well. Then,
assuming the rest of your current pattern fits you well, just expand
your band pattern so that it matches the one that fits you. Then you
will need to make the curve of the neck opening on the shirt fronts and
yoke pieces a little deeper. I recommend cutting no more than 1/8 inch
off the length of the entire curve and then checking to see if the
collar band fits. If the band is still too big, you can take a bit more
off but you must be careful not to cut the neck opening too big. Once
you get it right, be sure to reflect that on the yoke and front pattern
pieces. Obviously, you will need to adjust the collar size as well.
Feel free to ask questions if you don't understand. It is very
difficult to describe these things without illustrations.

This is really a fudge so I reiterate that it is far better to use a
pattern with the correct size neck. Which pattern are you using by the
way? My experience is that most men's dress shirt patterns of recent
years have been ill-fitting with way too dropped shoulders and huge
yokes that go down far too low in the back. If you're serious about
making shirts, you really should get a copy of David Page Coffin's book
on shirtmaking. There is no better readily available instruction.

This was a practice shirt and I want to get it right before cutting my
hand woven linen.

Hand woven linen?

Phae

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Dear Jack,

When you purchase a shirt, you measure around your neck where the
collar turns over. But when you make a shirt, you measure around the
base of your neck, add 1-1/4 inches, plus seam allowances. This gives
you the proper size for the stand, including the allowance for
buttonhole and underlap. The collar is then drafted to fit to the
center fronts (that's why you have to measure at the BASE of your neck
when drafting). In times when really wide neckties are in style, the
collar is cut back even further.

If you're using a commercial pattern, you must adjust the neckline on
the body. Then, it's safe to enlarge the stand and collar at the
center back.

A further note. If you have an athletic type neck, you may want to
slash the collar in about three places, and open the free, outside edge
of the collar (without changing the neck edge), so that the collar lays
flat when buttoned. I'm sure you've seen muscular men with their
collars curling upwards--this is solved by slashing the outer edges
until it lays flat.

Teri