Coat vs Shirt

You need to understand the difference between your body measurements,
wearing ease, and design ease. If your chest measurement is 44", then a
shirt which measures exactly that will be skin tight. In order to
breathe, you need to add around 2" wearing ease. If you make a jacket
with a finished chest measurement of 46" and put it onto a 44" torso, it
will fit like a shirt. For it to fir like a jacket, you need at least 4"
wearing ease. If the styles you aspire to are more loosely-fitting than
that (e.g. to allow for wadding, interlining, garments worn iunderneath)
you need to add further design ease.

Again, Jack, you *really* *do* *need* at this point to get hold of a
basic book on pattern drafting (via an inter-library loan or your local
college perhaps) and read it. Mind you, the way this thread is running,
we'll shortly have written one between us. Don't get me wrong, i'm not
saying "don't ask" - but i am saying that IMHO you should be motivating
yourself to doing some research other than just asking questions here.
Do some reading, then ask for clarifications, opinions, etc, that way
you'll get on far faster.

In article . com,
of http://groups.google.com uttered
I have a basic question on size.

If I make a shirt to size 44, it fits very well. A coat obviously has
to be larger to accommodate thicker fabrics, linings etc.

If I build a coat from a pattern size 44 will it take all this into
consideration or do I need to start with a larger pattern?


The coat I started in 44 does not seem like it will fit by the time I
fill and line it.

My plans are to use my not so nice fleece for an inner lining. The good
stuff I sent off for machine carding and kept a few pounds for felting.
Not sure how to handle the inner... I wet felted a piece about two sq
feet and it would work but it's a lot of work. I tried needle felting
some and it's a lot easier but really fluffy. Any thoughts on this?
Should I padstitch to the outer fabric or the lining or ?

js


--

AJH
alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo
sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango

In article , She who would like to be
obeyed once every Preston Guild of no.spam uttered

Again, Jack, you *really* *do* *need* at this point to get hold of a
basic book on pattern drafting (via an inter-library loan or your local
college perhaps) and read it.

Here you go - the winifred aldrich menswear book - this should give you
some food for thought beware, you may develop a tendency to wards
"cerebral sewing" - too many ideas, too little time.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...2705747/sr=1-3
/ref=sr_1_3_3/026-7891119-4312466
--

AJH
alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo
sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango

wrote:
I have a basic question on size.

If I make a shirt to size 44, it fits very well. A coat obviously has
to be larger to accommodate thicker fabrics, linings etc.

If I build a coat from a pattern size 44 will it take all this into
consideration or do I need to start with a larger pattern?

It should fit fine, but do check and buy by measurements, especially if
you are buying patterns of different makes!


The coat I started in 44 does not seem like it will fit by the time I
fill and line it.

If you make it according to the instructions for fabric and
construction, it *should* fit in theory. HOWEVER, it is always wise to
check! With complex patterns you want to make up in expensive fabric,
it is wise to make a toile/muslin out of cheap fabric first, to check
for these little differences.

My plans are to use my not so nice fleece for an inner lining. The good
stuff I sent off for machine carding and kept a few pounds for felting.
Not sure how to handle the inner... I wet felted a piece about two sq
feet and it would work but it's a lot of work. I tried needle felting
some and it's a lot easier but really fluffy. Any thoughts on this?
Should I padstitch to the outer fabric or the lining or ?

If this is thicker than the interlining recommended, you may well have
to make a bigger size. Yes, do pad stitch it in place if possible: this
will stop it moving about between the outer fashion fabric and the lining.


--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

How about finding a coat that you like the fit at a second hand shop, take
it apart to use for the basic pattern pieces? Then modify as needed to make
it a pea coat: larger collar, double breasted, etc. Might be the easiest
way to do it...

When doing this, you'll also see some of the construction that went in to
it.....

HTH

Cappy


wrote in message
oups.com...
Please excuse this if it shows up twice but my isp is very unreliable
posting to usenet and this never showed up in google groups.....


"BEI Design"

Over in rec.crafts.textiles.sewing you asked the same question in
March:

Not exactly the same question.

Did you look at:

Vogue # 7988


http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1
Leave out the shaping and substitute patch pockets.

Actually, I bought this one and have attempted two muslins from it. The
first is single brested and the second double. The first was the
single
brested version and I cut it to my size but it obviously will never be
big
enough for a heavy winter coat. It's a nice fit for a dinner jacket.

I started on the double brested one and got to the point that generated
the
questions in this thread. It seems gross overkill just to make a
peacoat
type coat.

Also, "leave out shaping" may be the key but I don't really know what
that
all entails.


If you want something a little less complicated, KwikSew 2462:
http://www.kwiksew.com/Cold_Fusion/c.../Frame_New.cfm

I looked at that and it seems to be very much like KS2000 from which I
made
my shirts so I didn't bother buying it.

Botttom line, is I still need a pattern for my winter coat.

js


--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com

First of all, last trip to the library neted 5 books on sewing so I
haven't been just asking questions. But this is all new to me and there
is a lot to absorb. Keep in mind I am starting with a sheep. I built
a spinner, learned to use it, built a loom ditto, made some shirts and
a coat is just the next step.

I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local
source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a
book I would even have noticed.

js

wrote in message
oups.com...

Vogue # 7988

Actually, I bought this one and have attempted two muslins from it.
The
first is single brested and the second double. The first was the
single
brested version and I cut it to my size but it obviously will never
be
big
enough for a heavy winter coat. It's a nice fit for a dinner
jacket.

Since that pattern is for a *coat* not a *jacket* I'm guessing you
used the wrong size (too small). The double breasted version, with
minor modifications, would work for me if I were making a Pea Coat.
(Larger collar, wider lapels, minimal shaping).

I started on the double brested one and got to the point that
generated
the
questions in this thread. It seems gross overkill just to make a
peacoat
type coat.

Whatever floats your boat. :-)

Also, "leave out shaping" may be the key but I don't really know
what
that
all entails.

The Vogue pattern I provided the link to is for a more *formal* man's
overcoat. For a simple shape like a Pea Coat, omit the darts, and
alter the seams where there is waist shaping so it's more of a boxy
shape. The double breasted view A is very close to what I would use
to make a Pea Coat but I'd use the collar and lapels from view C, and
make them a bit wider.

If you want something a little less complicated, KwikSew 2462:
http://www.kwiksew.com/Cold_Fusion/c.../Frame_New.cfm

I looked at that and it seems to be very much like KS2000 from which
I
made
my shirts so I didn't bother buying it.

Botttom line, is I still need a pattern for my winter coat.

Maybe buy an inexpensive ready-made coat that is close to what you
want and take it apart to make a pattern? shrug

--
Beverly
delete nospam and .invalid to reply

In article .com,
of http://groups.google.com uttered
I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local
source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a
book I would even have noticed.

Ah - try looking on Amazon rather than Amazon UK. The David coffin shirt
book is apparently an excellent one too - the only men's apparel I make
up is shirts done to a particular designer's spec, so I've never drafted
one. I can warp a loom, but if I need to keep a sheep or learn to spin
I'll know who to pester!

--

AJH
alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo
sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango

In article , BEI Design of uttered

Maybe buy an inexpensive ready-made coat that is close to what you want
and take it apart to make a pattern? shrug
Off to the charity shop with you! Quick-smart!

--

AJH
alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo
sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango

In article .com,
of http://groups.google.com uttered

I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local
source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a
book I would even have noticed.

Here you go

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...d=1112730882/s
r=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/002-1707705-4459233?v=glance&s=books

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...f=pd_sim_books
_1/002-1707705-4459233?v=glance&s=books

Aldrich appears to be harder/ slower to obtain than in the UK - a lead
time of 1 to 2 months seems ridiculous (they're presumably shipping from
here). It's probably be quicker for me to order it here and post it out
to you.

However, I did find this:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...p_elt_l1/002-1
707705-4459233

Have a browse and see what turns up.
--

AJH
alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo
sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango