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#11
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You need to understand the difference between your body measurements,
wearing ease, and design ease. If your chest measurement is 44", then a shirt which measures exactly that will be skin tight. In order to breathe, you need to add around 2" wearing ease. If you make a jacket with a finished chest measurement of 46" and put it onto a 44" torso, it will fit like a shirt. For it to fir like a jacket, you need at least 4" wearing ease. If the styles you aspire to are more loosely-fitting than that (e.g. to allow for wadding, interlining, garments worn iunderneath) you need to add further design ease. Again, Jack, you *really* *do* *need* at this point to get hold of a basic book on pattern drafting (via an inter-library loan or your local college perhaps) and read it. Mind you, the way this thread is running, we'll shortly have written one between us. Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying "don't ask" - but i am saying that IMHO you should be motivating yourself to doing some research other than just asking questions here. Do some reading, then ask for clarifications, opinions, etc, that way you'll get on far faster. In article . com, of http://groups.google.com uttered I have a basic question on size. If I make a shirt to size 44, it fits very well. A coat obviously has to be larger to accommodate thicker fabrics, linings etc. If I build a coat from a pattern size 44 will it take all this into consideration or do I need to start with a larger pattern? The coat I started in 44 does not seem like it will fit by the time I fill and line it. My plans are to use my not so nice fleece for an inner lining. The good stuff I sent off for machine carding and kept a few pounds for felting. Not sure how to handle the inner... I wet felted a piece about two sq feet and it would work but it's a lot of work. I tried needle felting some and it's a lot easier but really fluffy. Any thoughts on this? Should I padstitch to the outer fabric or the lining or ? js -- AJH alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango |
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#12
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In article , She who would like to be
obeyed once every Preston Guild of no.spam uttered Again, Jack, you *really* *do* *need* at this point to get hold of a basic book on pattern drafting (via an inter-library loan or your local college perhaps) and read it. Here you go - the winifred aldrich menswear book - this should give you some food for thought beware, you may develop a tendency to wards "cerebral sewing" - too many ideas, too little time. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...2705747/sr=1-3 /ref=sr_1_3_3/026-7891119-4312466 -- AJH alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango |
#14
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How about finding a coat that you like the fit at a second hand shop, take
it apart to use for the basic pattern pieces? Then modify as needed to make it a pea coat: larger collar, double breasted, etc. Might be the easiest way to do it... When doing this, you'll also see some of the construction that went in to it..... HTH Cappy wrote in message oups.com... Please excuse this if it shows up twice but my isp is very unreliable posting to usenet and this never showed up in google groups..... "BEI Design" Over in rec.crafts.textiles.sewing you asked the same question in March: Not exactly the same question. Did you look at: Vogue # 7988 http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1 Leave out the shaping and substitute patch pockets. Actually, I bought this one and have attempted two muslins from it. The first is single brested and the second double. The first was the single brested version and I cut it to my size but it obviously will never be big enough for a heavy winter coat. It's a nice fit for a dinner jacket. I started on the double brested one and got to the point that generated the questions in this thread. It seems gross overkill just to make a peacoat type coat. Also, "leave out shaping" may be the key but I don't really know what that all entails. If you want something a little less complicated, KwikSew 2462: http://www.kwiksew.com/Cold_Fusion/c.../Frame_New.cfm I looked at that and it seems to be very much like KS2000 from which I made my shirts so I didn't bother buying it. Botttom line, is I still need a pattern for my winter coat. js -- PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com |
#15
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First of all, last trip to the library neted 5 books on sewing so I
haven't been just asking questions. But this is all new to me and there is a lot to absorb. Keep in mind I am starting with a sheep. I built a spinner, learned to use it, built a loom ditto, made some shirts and a coat is just the next step. I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a book I would even have noticed. js |
#16
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wrote in message
oups.com... Vogue # 7988 Actually, I bought this one and have attempted two muslins from it. The first is single brested and the second double. The first was the single brested version and I cut it to my size but it obviously will never be big enough for a heavy winter coat. It's a nice fit for a dinner jacket. Since that pattern is for a *coat* not a *jacket* I'm guessing you used the wrong size (too small). The double breasted version, with minor modifications, would work for me if I were making a Pea Coat. (Larger collar, wider lapels, minimal shaping). I started on the double brested one and got to the point that generated the questions in this thread. It seems gross overkill just to make a peacoat type coat. Whatever floats your boat. :-) Also, "leave out shaping" may be the key but I don't really know what that all entails. The Vogue pattern I provided the link to is for a more *formal* man's overcoat. For a simple shape like a Pea Coat, omit the darts, and alter the seams where there is waist shaping so it's more of a boxy shape. The double breasted view A is very close to what I would use to make a Pea Coat but I'd use the collar and lapels from view C, and make them a bit wider. If you want something a little less complicated, KwikSew 2462: http://www.kwiksew.com/Cold_Fusion/c.../Frame_New.cfm I looked at that and it seems to be very much like KS2000 from which I made my shirts so I didn't bother buying it. Botttom line, is I still need a pattern for my winter coat. Maybe buy an inexpensive ready-made coat that is close to what you want and take it apart to make a pattern? shrug -- Beverly delete nospam and .invalid to reply |
#17
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In article .com,
of http://groups.google.com uttered I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a book I would even have noticed. Ah - try looking on Amazon rather than Amazon UK. The David coffin shirt book is apparently an excellent one too - the only men's apparel I make up is shirts done to a particular designer's spec, so I've never drafted one. I can warp a loom, but if I need to keep a sheep or learn to spin I'll know who to pester! -- AJH alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango |
#18
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In article , BEI Design of uttered
Maybe buy an inexpensive ready-made coat that is close to what you want and take it apart to make a pattern? shrug Off to the charity shop with you! Quick-smart! -- AJH alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango |
#19
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In article .com,
of http://groups.google.com uttered I looked at that link and it is in the UK so I will try to find a local source but the title "Metric Pattern Cutting" does not jump out as a book I would even have noticed. Here you go http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...d=1112730882/s r=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/002-1707705-4459233?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...f=pd_sim_books _1/002-1707705-4459233?v=glance&s=books Aldrich appears to be harder/ slower to obtain than in the UK - a lead time of 1 to 2 months seems ridiculous (they're presumably shipping from here). It's probably be quicker for me to order it here and post it out to you. However, I did find this: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...p_elt_l1/002-1 707705-4459233 Have a browse and see what turns up. -- AJH alpha dot hotel echo yankee whisky oscar oscar delta at tango echo sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango |
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