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#1
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Help -- newbie...
I'm just getting into clay and am beginning to realize how ignorant I am! I
recently bought several different kinds of clay -- all cone 6. I have access to a Skutt automatic kiln. I'm making some test tiles to eventually use for testing glazes. Somewhere I read that bisque firing is around cone 05-06 rather than cone 6. Should I fire to 06 first, glaze, then fire to cone 6 (or whatever the glaze needs), or fire to cone 6 before glazing? Also, is it possible to glaze the greenware and only fire once at cone 6? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I know this is very elementary for most of you... Fred |
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#2
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Help -- newbie...
fire to 05/06 first, add glaze, fire again to your cone 6.
it is possible to single fire, adding glaze at the dry clay stage. ~ but you'll have to test your self to make sure it works the way you want. see ya steve |
#3
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Help -- newbie...
Fred wrote:
I'm just getting into clay and am beginning to realize how ignorant I am! I recently bought several different kinds of clay -- all cone 6. I have access to a Skutt automatic kiln. I'm making some test tiles to eventually use for testing glazes. Somewhere I read that bisque firing is around cone 05-06 rather than cone 6. Should I fire to 06 first, glaze, then fire to cone 6 (or whatever the glaze needs), or fire to cone 6 before glazing? Also, is it possible to glaze the greenware and only fire once at cone 6? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I know this is very elementary for most of you... Fred Usually you bisque to 06-05, apply glaze, then glaze fire to cone 6. You can single fire only if the glazes tolerate it, which can only be learned by trying. Some glazes will blister in single fire--usually gloss glazes that are affected by gases which are more burnt out from the double firing system. It's best for beginners to start with the bisque fire--it makes the pots much less fragile for glazing. Brad Sondahl -- For my comics, pottery how-to videos, original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage http://sondahl.com |
#4
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Help -- newbie...
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 21:47:20 GMT, "Fred" wrote:
I'm just getting into clay and am beginning to realize how ignorant I am! I recently bought several different kinds of clay -- all cone 6. I have access to a Skutt automatic kiln. I'm making some test tiles to eventually use for testing glazes. Somewhere I read that bisque firing is around cone 05-06 rather than cone 6. Should I fire to 06 first, glaze, then fire to cone 6 (or whatever the glaze needs), or fire to cone 6 before glazing? Also, is it possible to glaze the greenware and only fire once at cone 6? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I know this is very elementary for most of you... Fred To add to what others have said about single-fire techniques, note that the biggest problem is that if you try to apply glaze to bone-dry greenware, the clay may absorb too much water and expand, producing serious cracks. Usually these cracks will be obvious when the glaze dries, but it's also possible that they will be internal and will cause the piece to be weak after firing. Another problem is that while you are applying the glaze, and the piece absorbs water, it may become too weak to handle. Glaze application by dipping is a big problem because of this. Many folks who single-fire thus either apply glaze by spraying the bone-dry ware (which puts less water into the piece) OR by applying glaze to the piece at the leather-hard stage. In that case, you may have to fiddle with your glaze formula to get best results. Best regards, Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator |
#5
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Help -- newbie... THANKS!
Steve, Brad, Bob: Thanks! This is exactly what I need to know.
Fred |
#6
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Help -- newbie...
You can only green glaze tight clay bodies, like porcelain. For
other, more open clays, you glaze at leather hard. -- 李 Lee Love 大 愛 鱗 in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs http://ikiru.blogspot.com/ Zen and Craft "The way we are, we are members of each other. All of us. Everything. The difference ain't in who is a member and who is not, but in who knows it and who don't." --Burley Coulter (Wendell Berry) |
#7
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Help -- newbie...
We fire our bisque to 04 then glaze. Everything depends on the clay body
that you are using. Some have a heavier tooth than others. Porcelain is fragile, stoneware with good frit will hold up to one firing. A friend, graduated UW Whitewater 1974 has only ever done a single firing on any of his work. On the outset, serious bloating, especially on platters. At present, he fires to stoneware and spraypaints his work. All non-functional of course. What is your objective with your clay work? "Fred" wrote in message ... I'm just getting into clay and am beginning to realize how ignorant I am! I recently bought several different kinds of clay -- all cone 6. I have access to a Skutt automatic kiln. I'm making some test tiles to eventually use for testing glazes. Somewhere I read that bisque firing is around cone 05-06 rather than cone 6. Should I fire to 06 first, glaze, then fire to cone 6 (or whatever the glaze needs), or fire to cone 6 before glazing? Also, is it possible to glaze the greenware and only fire once at cone 6? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I know this is very elementary for most of you... Fred |
#8
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Help -- newbie...
wrote: that you are using. Some have a heavier tooth than others. Porcelain is fragile, stoneware with good frit will hold up to one firing. Poreclain is better for green glazing. But stoneware with grog (did you mean grog & not frit?) will crumble when green glazed. Open bodies, like fritted bodies, need to be glazed a leather hard. -- Lee Love in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." --Leonardo da Vinci |
#9
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Help -- newbie...
Poreclain is better for green glazing. But stoneware with grog (did
you mean grog & not frit?) will crumble when green glazed. Open bodies, like grogged bodies, need to be glazed a leather hard. -- Lee Love in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." --Leonardo da Vinci |
#10
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Help -- newbie...
I'm making garden lanterns -- both electric and candle. Curently, I'm
experimenting with different clays but leaning toward stoneware that matures at cone 6. I'd like to go for higher-fired clays but the only kiln I currently have access to is a cone 8 max electric, so it's all oxidation only for now. I expect to glaze more on the primitive side, probably not glazing the entire piece. Maybe tops only or a partial dip for the bottoms. I'm really new at this. Learning a lot! Thanks, Fred wrote in message .. . We fire our bisque to 04 then glaze. Everything depends on the clay body that you are using. Some have a heavier tooth than others. Porcelain is fragile, stoneware with good frit will hold up to one firing. A friend, graduated UW Whitewater 1974 has only ever done a single firing on any of his work. On the outset, serious bloating, especially on platters. At present, he fires to stoneware and spraypaints his work. All non-functional of course. What is your objective with your clay work? "Fred" wrote in message ... I'm just getting into clay and am beginning to realize how ignorant I am! I recently bought several different kinds of clay -- all cone 6. I have access to a Skutt automatic kiln. I'm making some test tiles to eventually use for testing glazes. Somewhere I read that bisque firing is around cone 05-06 rather than cone 6. Should I fire to 06 first, glaze, then fire to cone 6 (or whatever the glaze needs), or fire to cone 6 before glazing? Also, is it possible to glaze the greenware and only fire once at cone 6? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I know this is very elementary for most of you... Fred |
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