So guess what I am working on now?

I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with) yarn, because
all the yarn I bought to make the sweater was screaming at me after I
finished Mimi's sweater.

On Wednesday, my youngest finished testing for and successfully earned
his Black Belt in Tae Kwon Do (which included qualifying at the 85th
percentile on the President's Physical Fitness Challenge), and I was
over at the gym for a few hours knitting away.

Yesterday work was REALLY slow, so I was sitting around here knitting
away on it more and wishing it was done because it was freezing cold.

I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.

This knitting such a big piece in the round on circulars is funny -- I
feel like I am knitting laps around a race track LOL.

As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do more
short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pretty
sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published c.
1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making your
own patterns this way.

Georgia
http://www.georgiamorgan.net/html/knitting.htm

"Samantha Hill - take out TRASH to reply"
wrote in message ...
I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with) yarn, because
all the yarn I bought to make the sweater was screaming at me after I
finished Mimi's sweater.

On Wednesday, my youngest finished testing for and successfully earned
his Black Belt in Tae Kwon Do (which included qualifying at the 85th
percentile on the President's Physical Fitness Challenge), and I was
over at the gym for a few hours knitting away.

Yesterday work was REALLY slow, so I was sitting around here knitting
away on it more and wishing it was done because it was freezing cold.

I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.

This knitting such a big piece in the round on circulars is funny -- I
feel like I am knitting laps around a race track LOL.

In article ,
Georgia wrote:
"Samantha Hill - take out TRASH to reply"
wrote
I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with)
snip
I have about 7 inches done. It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
separately. I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.

As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do more
short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pretty
sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published c.
1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making your
own patterns this way.

That shapes the shoulders and sleeve tops; but before you get that far,
you need to shape the set-in for the sleeve hole. On a circular knit,
that's done by binding off (or putting on a holder) about ten stitches
(maybe fewer, on big needles) for the bottom of each armhole. Then you
switch to knitting back and forth on the front and back (one at a time,
usually). (You could just knit the tube all the way up and then machine
stitch where you want to cut the armhole. The shaping is done with the
sewing machine then, but where's the fun in that?)

To make the sleeves set in a little more, you do bindoffs on every
knit row on both sides of each armhole, to make a little slanted
edge, until you narrow the flat part to the width you want it.

Usually the measurement is the width at the points of the shoulders,
but it can be an inch or so in toward the neck. If you make the back
and chest of the sweater narrow, you have to make the sleeve tops
wider to cover the ends of the shoulders. With doubled yarn and big
needles, a few stitches either way will make a very big difference,
so I recommend putting in a lifeline before you begin the shaping.
If you have to rip it out, you will have a marker for where to start
again. Try it on as you go, too.

You can knit the sleeves wrist-up and sew them in or you can pick
up stitches from the completed armhole and knit down to the wrist.

=Tamar

On Feb 2, 9:05*am, (Richard Eney) wrote:
In article ,





Georgia wrote:
"Samantha Hill - take out TRASH to reply"
wrote
I have one legwarmer finished and decided I wanted to wait before
finishing the other one, so I used the Sweater Generator at
knittingfool.com and created a drop-sleeve sweater pattern for two
strands of worsted-weight yarn (one black, one tan) on size 10.5 (plus
or minus a half -- I can't remember what I ended up with)
snip
I have about 7 inches done. *It's a bottom up, done with no seams on
circulars until you hit the armholes, then you knit the front and back
separately. *I am hoping that by the time I get to the armholes, I will
have had time to figure out how to change it to make the armholes semi
set-in to the sweater, because it will fit me tons better that way, and
then I need to figure out if I want to try short rows for bust
accommodation or just leave it be and pretend I bought it LOL.

As I recall, for set-in sleeves, you'll do shoulder "decreases" ?by
short-rowing (so the shoulder slants down from the neck), and you'll do more
short-rows at the top of the sleeve to make a round shoulder cap. I'm pretty
sure Barbara Walker's "Knitting from the top down" (originally published c.
1980, but still worth every penny) has complete directions for making your
own patterns this way.

That shapes the shoulders and sleeve tops; but before you get that far,
you need to shape the set-in for the sleeve hole. *On a circular knit,
that's done by binding off (or putting on a holder) about ten stitches
(maybe fewer, on big needles) for the bottom of each armhole. *Then you
switch to knitting back and forth on the front and back (one at a time,
usually). *(You could just knit the tube all the way up and then machine
stitch where you want to cut the armhole. *The shaping is done with the
sewing machine then, but where's the fun in that?)

To make the sleeves set in a little more, you do bindoffs on every
knit row on both sides of each armhole, to make a little slanted
edge, until you narrow the flat part to the width you want it. *

Usually the measurement is the width at the points of the shoulders,
but it can be an inch or so in toward the neck. *If you make the back
and chest of the sweater narrow, you have to make the sleeve tops
wider to cover the ends of the shoulders. *With doubled yarn and big
needles, a few stitches either way will make a very big difference,
so I recommend putting in a lifeline before you begin the shaping. *
If you have to rip it out, you will have a marker for where to start
again. Try it on as you go, too.

You can knit the sleeves wrist-up and sew them in or you can pick
up stitches from the completed armhole and knit down to the wrist.

=Tamar- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As always Tamar has wonderful explanations !!!!
thank you mirjam

wrote:

As always Tamar has wonderful explanations !!!!

It was indeed a wonderful explanation that I saved for later use, but I
am a little bit flummoxed as to how I am supposed to adapt it for a
bottom-up sweater that is in progress.

In article ,
Samantha Hill - take out TRASH to reply wrote:
wrote:

As always Tamar has wonderful explanations !!!!

It was indeed a wonderful explanation that I saved for later use, but
I am a little bit flummoxed as to how I am supposed to adapt it for a
bottom-up sweater that is in progress.

When you have knitted the body up to where you want the bottom of
the armhole to begin, decide how wide you want the armhole to be.
Generally it's what's left over after you mark how wide you want the
front and back to be.

Put markers at the four positions: two edges of front, and two edges
of back. The two spaces in between are for the left and right sleeves
to be sewn into: the armholes.

Decide whether you want to have the armhole slightly curved (slanted in)
at the bottom. If you do, knit a few stitches past the place where you
marked the edge of the front/back. This gives you a few stitches to
decrease over the next few rows until the front/back are the width
you really want.

Having knit almost to the beginning of the first armhole, either do
a k2tog just before the last stitch (to start a slanting decrease)
or do the k2tog at the very edge (not as nice an edge).
(Or if you just want a square armhole, just bind off across the bottom.)

Once you've bound off across as far as you need to for the bottom of
the armhole, start knitting again, creating the slant on the other
edgee with a k2tog (or a mirror image, ssk) after the first stitch.
You could do it at the exact edge but it makes a smoother slant if
the k2togs are set in.

Do the same when you get to the other armhole. Knit across again.

Now you need to know whether you want to sew and cut steeks (knitting
the tube in the round up to the shoulder shaping) or knit the front
and back separately, flat knitting.

If you purely hate flat knitting and are willing to machine sew
and cut, then after you have done the next k2tog or ssk to shape
the armhole at the edge of the front (let's say), cast on about six
stitches to make an edge to sew and cut, and work the back (doing
the decreases you decided on). Do the same when you get to the
other armhole. Continue knitting in the round until it's time to
shape the shoulders. After you've done the shoulder shaping,
_check your work_ to be absolutely sure you've got everything right
(because a steek once cut can't be easily mended and the task is
not for the faint of heart). Then once you're sure it's in the
right place and the right depth, machine stitch two lines (or
four for extra security) down the middle of that place where you
had cast on extra stitches, and cut between the stitches. There's
your armhole. Repeat with the other, making sure they're the same
depth.

Then either knit the sleeves separately and sew them in, or
pick up stitches and knit the sleeves down to the wrist.
Either way, remember that the cast-on stitches that are now
making a little flap on each side of the armhole are the seam
allowance. They can be sewn down inside later. If you knit
the sleeves separately and sew them in, the flaps can be sewn
over the seams.

=Tamar

Richard Eney wrote:
It was indeed a wonderful explanation that I saved for later use, but
I am a little bit flummoxed as to how I am supposed to adapt it for a
bottom-up sweater that is in progress.

When you have knitted the body up to where you want the bottom of
the armhole to begin, decide how wide you want the armhole to be.
Generally it's what's left over after you mark how wide you want the
front and back to be.

*lots of great stuff snipped*

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