Blocking(?) question

Hi,

I'm crocheting a rectangular piece about 12 by 24 inches, but one end is
turning out to be narrower than the other end - the piece is now more than
sixty percent complete and I don't want to frog it. I understand from Cher
that I need to block it, my understanding this is done by blocking it,
perhaps ironing it then letting it cool pinned to shape. Is this correct? -
I haven't blocked anything previously, what do I pin the blocked item to to
hold it in shape? I seem to have read long ago to not iron the piece
directly but to iron it between two clean towels, is this a good thing to
do? Is it important to know what the yarn is made of? I don't know yet - I
need to get someone to read what the yarn is made of from the label.

Thanks!

David

Hi David,

Do you know the brand and name of the yarn? I would be happy to look
it up for you if you do.

I think fiber content is the key. When I block natural fibers, I soak
the object thoroughly in cool water, then gently squeeze the excess
water out. Next I roll it in a terry cloth towel to remove more water.
If the object is small, I don't use pins, but lay it out in the shape
and size I want on another terry cloth towel to dry completely. The
times I did use pins, I just pinned the object to a double thickness
terry towel.

I'm less familiar with blocking synthetics, but I do know you want to
be careful with the iron. I think you can use the steam feature and
hold the iron several inches above the object.

Hesira

Hi Hesira,

I just scanned the front and back of the label (good thing I saved one
lol!), it's below. I couldn't figure out the brand but I did get it's 100%
acrylic.

Note the ~ characters are unrecognized characters by the old DOS scanning
software I am using on my DOS computer.

Thanks!

David

FRONT OF YARN LABEL:

COLOR: 2101 White
NU UYE LOT

SANS LOT DE TEINTU
SIN TENIR


Made in USA


~) 28 1~6 .t

C~ ~

WORSTED ù MEDIUM ~ MOYEN ù MEOIO
NET WT 6 oz | 170 9 312 yds | 285 m

~1


NO DYE LOT
SANS LOT DETEINTURE
SIN TENIR

PARLES ~FABRCAANNTTESSDE (~) RED HEART

PA7TERN
ON BACK!


ù 15 oz (425 ~9)

#2673 Medium Thyme
ù 14 oz (397 9)

#2672 Light Thyme
ù 14 oz (397 9)

#2316 Linen

Patron a l'endos!

Patron al Reverso!
(en Ingles)

MACHINE

SEE REVERSE
100% ACRYLIC

UVER ET SECHER UVAR Y SECAR
U ~ACHINE; A MAQUINA;

VOIR A L'ENDOS VER REVERS0

100% ACRYLIUUE . 100% ACRILIC0

~ox10cm ~ .

' 40ø~C ~ ~

BACK OF YARN LABEL:

CA Machine wash warm, gentle cycle. Tumble dry low. Do not over
dry. For best results on fringe, hand wash; lay flat to dry.


ENTRETIEN: Laver a la machine a l'eau tibde, au cycle delicat.
Sechage par culbutage a basse temperature. Ne pas trop secher. Pour
de meilleurs resultats avec les glands et les franges, laver a la
main; etendre a plat pour faire secher.


INSTRUCCIONES PARA LAVADO: Lavar en lavadora con agua tibia, ciclo
delicado. Seca en la secadora a temperatura para ropa delicada. No
secar demasiado. Para mejores resultad en los flecos de este, lavar
a mano; secar extendido.


SB514-004 ShadedThrow
Intermediate experience required ~ ~ ~
INTERMEDIATE
Throw measures approx~lmately 47" x 64" .

TLC~ ~EssentialsTM: 15 Ounces No. 2673 Medium Thyme CA, 14 ounces
each No. 2672 L Thyme CB and No. 2316 Winter White CC.


Crochet Hook: U.S. Size J-10 [6mm].


GAUGE: 1 shell plus 1 sc = 3"; Rows 1-5 = 31/2". CHECKYOUR GAUGE.
Use any size hc to obtain the gauge.


With CA, ch 152. Row 1 (Wrong Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in
each ch across; turr

Row 2 (Right Side): Ch 1, sc in first sc, ' skip next 4 sc; 9 dtr
in next sc - shell made, skip next 4 sc, sc in next sc; rep from '
across, changing to CB in last sc; turn.

Row 3: With CB, ch 5 (counts as a tr and ch-1 sp), 2 tr in first
sc, ' ch 2, skip 4 dtr, sc in ne dtr, ch 2, sk~lp 4 dtr ~', (2 tr,
ch 1, 2 tr) all in next sc, rep from ' to last sc, end at ", (2 tr,
ch

tr) all in last sc; turn.
Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), 4 dtr in ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, '
shell in next ch-1 sp, sc in nc sc; rep from ' to last sp; 4 dtr in
ch-1 sp, dtr in 4th ch of ch-5 changing to CC; turn.

Row 5: W~lth CC, ch 1, sc in first dtr, ' ch 2, skip 4 dtr, (2 tr,
ch 1, 2 tr) all in next sc, ch 2, sk 4 dtr, sc ~In next dtr; rep
from ~ across working last sc in top of ch-5; turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ' shell in next ch-1 sp, sc in next
sc, rep from ' across changing CA in last sc; turn.


Rep Rows 3-6 for pattern, working color sequence of [2 rows CA 2
rows CB 2 rows CC] 1' times, then 1 more row CA (wrong side); now
turn and work Edging around all edges: With CA, ch 1, sc evenly
around, increasing at corners to keep work flat; join to first sc.
Fasten of With right side facing, attach CB and work 1 rnd sc,
increasing at corners as before; join. Fast off. Rep last rnd with
CC, then again with CA. Weave in ends.


Designed by Mary
Jane Proh ABBREVIATIONS: CA, CB CC = Color A Color B, Color C ch =
chain dc = double croch~ dtr = double treble crochet; mm =
millimeters; rep - repeat rnd = round sc = single croch

sp = space; st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble crochet; ^ = repeat
whatever follows the ' as indicate [ ] = work directions in
brackets the number of times specified.


SB514-004F Jete nuance
Experience intermediaire requise.


Le jete mesure approximativement 47" x 64".


"Essentials" de TLC~): 15 oz No 2673 Medium Thyme CA, 14 oz chaqye
No 2672 Light Thyn CB et No 2316 Winter White CC.


Crochet: U.S. J-10 [6mm].


TENSION- 1 coq plus 1 ms = 3 '; R 1-5 = 3 1/2' . VERIFIER VOTRE
TENSION. Utiliser le crochet necessaire pour obtenir la tension.


Avec CA, 152 ml. R 1 (Env de l'ouv): Ms dans la 2e ml du crochet et
dans chaque ml, tournr - 1 51 ms.

R 2 (End de l'ouv): 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re ms, ' sauter les 4 ms
suiv; 9 tr-br dans la ms suiv -coq fa~lte; sauter les 4 ms suiv, ms
dans la ms suiv; rep de ', en changeant pour CB dans la dern ms;
tourner.

R 3: Avec CB, 5 ml (compte comme une db-br et un esp de ml), 2 db-
br dans la 1 re ms ' 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br, ms dans la tr-br suiv,
2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br ", (2 db-br 1 ml, 2 db-br) tout dan la ms
suiv; rep de ' jsq la dern ms, finir a '~; (2 db-br, 1 ml, db-br)
tout dans ia dern ms tourne R 4: 5 ml (compte comme une tr-br), 4
tr-br dans l'esp de ml, ms dans la ms suiv, ~ coq dans l'esp de ml
SUIV, ms dans la ms suiv; rep de ' jsq dern esp; 4 tr-br dans l'esp
de ml, tr-br dan la 4e des s ml en changeant pour CC; tourner.

R 5: Avec CC, 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re tr-br, ' 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br,
(2 db-br 1 ml 2 db-br) tout dan la ms suiv, 2 ml, sauter 4 tr-br,
ms dans la tr-br suiv; rep de ' en trav la dern ms dans le haut des
5 ml; tourner.

R 6: 1 ml, ms dans la 1 re ms, ' coq dans l'esp de ml suiv, ms dans
la ms suiv; rep de ' en changeant pour CA dans la dern ms; tourner.


Rep les R 3-6 pour le motif, en trav la sequence de couleur de [2
r CA, 2 r CB, 2 r CC] 12 fois puis 1 r de plus CA (env de l'ouv);
maintenant tourner et trav la bordure autour des bords:

Avec CA, 1 ml, ms egalement tout autour en augmentant dans les
coins pour garder le trav= a plat; joindre a la 1 re ms. Briser le
fil. Avec l'end de l'ouv vers vous attacher CB et trav 1 tou en ms,
en augmentant dans les coins comme auparavant; joindre. Briser le
fil Rep le dern tou avec CC, puis encore avec CA. Entrer les bouts


Concu par Mary
Jane Protus ABREVIATIONS: CA, CB, CC = Couleur A, Couleur B,
Couleur C coq = coquille db-br =

double-bride; dern = dernier; end = endroit; env = envers; esp =
espace; ml = maille en l'air mm = m~lllimetre; ms = maille serree;
rep = repeter; m = maille(s); r = rang(s); suiv = suivant; tr-br =
tnple-bride; trav = travailler; ' = repeter ce qui suit ~ tel
qu'indique; [ ] = trav les instructic

dans les parenthese le nombre de fois specifie.




On Sat, 8 Jul 2006, hesira wrote:

Hi David,

Do you know the brand and name of the yarn? I would be happy to look
it up for you if you do.

I think fiber content is the key. When I block natural fibers, I soak
the object thoroughly in cool water, then gently squeeze the excess
water out. Next I roll it in a terry cloth towel to remove more water.
If the object is small, I don't use pins, but lay it out in the shape
and size I want on another terry cloth towel to dry completely. The
times I did use pins, I just pinned the object to a double thickness
terry towel.

I'm less familiar with blocking synthetics, but I do know you want to
be careful with the iron. I think you can use the steam feature and
hold the iron several inches above the object.

Hesira

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, David, but blocking isn't likely to do
much to change the shape of something made of acrylic yarn.

--
Jan in MN

"David R. Sky" wrote in message
.bc.ca...
Hi Hesira,

I just scanned the front and back of the label (good thing I saved one
lol!), it's below. I couldn't figure out the brand but I did get it's 100%
acrylic.

Note the ~ characters are unrecognized characters by the old DOS scanning
software I am using on my DOS computer.

Thanks!

David

Okay, thanks jan, I guess that's better than inadvertantly destroying it
*grumpy lol!*

David



On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Midwest poster wrote:

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, David, but blocking isn't likely to do
much to change the shape of something made of acrylic yarn.