If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Cone 6 Glazes WITHOUT Gertsley Borate?
Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley
Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Hi dkat,
I have started playing with cone six glazes by adjusting my favourite cone 10 glazes... however, I was always firing oxidation, so it was a bit easier. Anyway, If you add 10% frit 4108 ( used to substitute gerstley borate) to cone 10 glazes, you are likely to get simmilar glaze maturing at cone 6....as a rule of thumb... or replace potash feldspar with soda feldspar. I tend to avoid gerstley as it is water soluable and tends to spitt off pots during firing. Andrea "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Hi dkat,
That's how I started. Frustrated with the firing results at school, I bought an electric kiln and "MC6G". Before that I had never mixed glazes or fired a kiln. It took alot of work and alot of trial and error but I have finally started seeing it pay off. Since you already have experience in glazes and firing, I am sure that you won't have the amount of issues to overcome that I did. Check out my site for some results and let me know what you think. Just keep in mind I have only been potting for about a year and a half. Bert Gibson http://home.comcast.net/~lazybpottery/ "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you. Yes, the gerstley spitting off of pots is a serious issue that
many people are not aware of at all. We just lost an entire kiln load of pieces, all of the shelves and the sitter because the Honey glaze from a piece spit onto the sitter and kept it from shutting off (at least this is what I was told). "A&V" wrote in message ... Hi dkat, I have started playing with cone six glazes by adjusting my favourite cone 10 glazes... however, I was always firing oxidation, so it was a bit easier. Anyway, If you add 10% frit 4108 ( used to substitute gerstley borate) to cone 10 glazes, you are likely to get simmilar glaze maturing at cone 6....as a rule of thumb... or replace potash feldspar with soda feldspar. I tend to avoid gerstley as it is water soluable and tends to spitt off pots during firing. Andrea "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
It is not becoming for a woman of my age to feel .... well ... green with
envy and jealousy.... Those are really lovely and it is really impossible to believe that you have just been doing this a year plus. The reduction pieces brought back many memories. Thank you. "Bert Gibson" wrote in message news:saQJc.104364$Oq2.58773@attbi_s52... Hi dkat, That's how I started. Frustrated with the firing results at school, I bought an electric kiln and "MC6G". Before that I had never mixed glazes or fired a kiln. It took alot of work and alot of trial and error but I have finally started seeing it pay off. Since you already have experience in glazes and firing, I am sure that you won't have the amount of issues to overcome that I did. Check out my site for some results and let me know what you think. Just keep in mind I have only been potting for about a year and a half. Bert Gibson http://home.comcast.net/~lazybpottery/ "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Most cone 6 gerstley recipes, if the content is not too large, can be adjusted
for frits. Ferro frits 3124,3134 and 3195 are all boron bearing frits. As far as glazes go you have to decide what kind of work you want to produce and what surface and colors you think would be appropriate for that work. You can use ash or fake ash glazes for one look, transparent glossy glazes that can be used alone of over slips for more depth and variation is another way to go, or matt glazes or all of the above. Oxidation glazes can have depth by layering, using slips underneath, etc. Any or all of the above can give you a good body of work. You just have to put in the time and start testing. I just finished spending several days batching glaze tests and now have over 60 tiles that I'm getting ready for firing. You just have to be willing to put in the hard time. You are the only one who can give yourself the jump start. The web is filled with glaze recipes, pictures of glazes and pots, etc. One good base glaze can give you an unlimited number of colors to choose from. Make sketches of the pots you want to make and then decide what claybody you want to use and what kind of glaze you would want to see on those forms and start testing. As far as silica, I use 200 mesh just because I feel it's a bit safer than dealing with finer, air born, silica particles of 400 mesh. The finer mesh will melt sooner and often it is used because if a glaze is borderline crazing the finer silica or amorphous silica can sometimes prevent that. I'd rather alter the expansion of the glaze in most cases rather than resorting to using finer silica. Lastly, I think it's a mistake to think you have to make oxidation glazes look like cone 10 reduction glazes. There is some wonderful work coming out of cone 6 oxidation and I just think it's waste of energy to try to make it something it isn't. At best you can only expect a poor substitute for the most part. You can get beautiful matts at cone 6 with firing down, which permits crystal growth. With cone 6 oxidation you have a vast color pallette to work with and with some creative endeavors can get interesting looking work. Maybe incoroporate more texture in your pieces and then those transparent glazes will pool beautifully, giving them more depth and interest. You just have to get in there and start working. If you're using Randy's red you might want to test it since with all that gerstley and high iron it might leach and may not do well over time in the dishwasher. It's a glaze that may best be saved for non functional work that won't be subjected to the harsh environment of the chemicals in a dishwasher. You can do a quick vinegar test by putting some vinegar in part of a shallow dish with this glaze and let it sit a couple of days and see if it changes color. It's not a definitive test if it doesn't; but if it does, it shows you that it is leaching and won't be food safe or dishwasher safe. Regards, June Perry http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/ |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Bert,
Just had a look at your site. Love the "Sky Blue" any chance of you sharing the recipe with us all. Kind Regards Kevin. "Bert Gibson" wrote in message news:saQJc.104364$Oq2.58773@attbi_s52... Hi dkat, That's how I started. Frustrated with the firing results at school, I bought an electric kiln and "MC6G". Before that I had never mixed glazes or fired a kiln. It took alot of work and alot of trial and error but I have finally started seeing it pay off. Since you already have experience in glazes and firing, I am sure that you won't have the amount of issues to overcome that I did. Check out my site for some results and let me know what you think. Just keep in mind I have only been potting for about a year and a half. Bert Gibson http://home.comcast.net/~lazybpottery/ "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Kevin,
Sorry, if it were my glaze I would share, but it's not. It belong's to John Hesselberth and Ron Roy. They asked that the recipes not be given out because they published the book at thier own expense. They have a website (masteringglazes.com) through which you can get it. Well worth the cost and they have been more than generous when answering my questions. Also, "your mileage may very" as they say. Though I followed thier formula and thier firing schedule, my results were different then they showed in the book. Regards, Bert Gibson Kevin Baldwin wrote: Bert, Just had a look at your site. Love the "Sky Blue" any chance of you sharing the recipe with us all. Kind Regards Kevin. "Bert Gibson" wrote in message news:saQJc.104364$Oq2.58773@attbi_s52... Hi dkat, That's how I started. Frustrated with the firing results at school, I bought an electric kiln and "MC6G". Before that I had never mixed glazes or fired a kiln. It took alot of work and alot of trial and error but I have finally started seeing it pay off. Since you already have experience in glazes and firing, I am sure that you won't have the amount of issues to overcome that I did. Check out my site for some results and let me know what you think. Just keep in mind I have only been potting for about a year and a half. Bert Gibson http://home.comcast.net/~lazybpottery/ "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I might add that it is a very nice book and well worth having.
"Bert Gibson" wrote in message news:OiVJc.106061$XM6.39653@attbi_s53... Hi Kevin, Sorry, if it were my glaze I would share, but it's not. It belong's to John Hesselberth and Ron Roy. They asked that the recipes not be given out because they published the book at thier own expense. They have a website (masteringglazes.com) through which you can get it. Well worth the cost and they have been more than generous when answering my questions. Also, "your mileage may very" as they say. Though I followed thier formula and thier firing schedule, my results were different then they showed in the book. Regards, Bert Gibson Kevin Baldwin wrote: Bert, Just had a look at your site. Love the "Sky Blue" any chance of you sharing the recipe with us all. Kind Regards Kevin. "Bert Gibson" wrote in message news:saQJc.104364$Oq2.58773@attbi_s52... Hi dkat, That's how I started. Frustrated with the firing results at school, I bought an electric kiln and "MC6G". Before that I had never mixed glazes or fired a kiln. It took alot of work and alot of trial and error but I have finally started seeing it pay off. Since you already have experience in glazes and firing, I am sure that you won't have the amount of issues to overcome that I did. Check out my site for some results and let me know what you think. Just keep in mind I have only been potting for about a year and a half. Bert Gibson http://home.comcast.net/~lazybpottery/ "dkat" wrote in message . .. Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
If you were to live across the Atlantic in the UK, for example, you
would never have bothered with Gertsley Borate in the first place. If you want cone 6 glazes without this material than you will find plenty of recipes in Mike Bailey's book 'Glazes Cone 6', some without either Gertsley Borate or a fritt. ISBN 0-8122-1782-9 David In article , dkat writes Just curious how people are doing on coming up with glazes without Gertsley Borate. Does anyone have a favorite out of the "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" book? All of the glazes we use in the studio I have worked in are based on the various Gertsley formulas. The glazes I like are the Randy's Red, Honey, and the copper glazes that can't be used on the inside of pots (Pennels with Erins green)... I have just bought an electric kiln and have "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" . I was schooled in reduction ^8-10 and am more than a tad nervous about the whole endeavor of oxidation firings at cone 6. To me even the Gertsley Borate glazes often look flat with oxidation ^6. My favorite glazes that I learned on were Albany slip with rutile oxide decorations, the iron based celadon when it went blue sea green, and Shino. I do not want to carry on the error of using GB. I'm working in a very small space and don't really want to buy more that a half dozen bags of ingredients. In any case I can't seem to kick start myself into beginning. I find that even though I used to make up our glazes for reduction firings that I don't know what silica to use for the base glazes out of MC6G... We never used silica as the ingredient "Silica" and my catalogs don't have anything listed in that form that appears to be a glaze ingredient. Now I have given much more information that anyone cares to read or is interested in..... Mostly I'm looking for some kind of nudge to get me in gear. -- David Hewitt |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
glas FAQs | Tom Buck | Pottery | 0 | October 16th 03 07:50 PM |
Glaze FAQs | Tom Buck | Pottery | 1 | September 18th 03 04:16 PM |
glaze FAQ's | Tom Buck | Pottery | 0 | August 18th 03 01:26 AM |
FAQ:Intro to rec.crafts.pottery | Mishy Lowe | Pottery | 0 | July 18th 03 06:05 AM |
glaze FAQs | Tom Buck | Pottery | 0 | July 18th 03 05:40 AM |