armscye fit question

I am working on a pattern for a somewhat fitted sleevless sheath dress.
(it is a Burda pattern)
I have run into my usual problem once again and have the following question.
The front of the armscye (if one can use that term for a sleevless
dress) is always too far out toward my shoulder, causing the garment to
dig into the front of my shoulder, while the back is often farther away
from my shoulder than I would like. By shoulder I mean the front and
back where the arm meets the body.
Might this be an indication that the front of my torso is narrower than
the pattern is designed for while my back is broader?
Is there a tidy way of altering a pattern in general to solve this
problem at the drafting stage?
I usually attempt to redraw the armscye (which is a pain on a sleeved
pattern, also requiring fiddling with the sleeve head), but there has
got to be a better way.

I await your collective wisdom.

liz young

Dear Liz,

If you have a pattern with a fitted bodice, use this as the basis for a
"sloper" (fitting pattern). Make up the front and back in muslin, and
in front, draw where you want the finished line to be, and in back,
pinch out what is needed to make it conform to your desired fit. Note:
A sleeveless armhole can fit very high up under the arm--in fact
should, so that underwear doesn't show.

You can then make a template labeled, "sleeveless armhole," and use it
each time you need the alteration. I use oak tag (the stuff from which
manila folders are made) for endurance. If you want facings for the
new armholes, trace the template edge, then measure and draw the piece
2-21/2 inches wide. Don't forget to overlap the shoulder seam, so that
you can make the facing in one piece.

This sounds complicated, perhaps, but easy if done step by step.

Teri

Dear Liz,

If you have a fitted bodice pattern, make it up in muslin, then adjust
it. Draw a line on the front armhole where you want it to fit against
your body; pinch out the desired amount on the back. The most
attractive sleeveless armscyes fit right up to the underarm, and cover
your underwear. When you are satisfied with the fit, make templates
for the front and back armholes, and each time this alteration is
needed, simply trace these templates onto your pattern. Remember to
add seam allowances.

To make facings for the new armscyes, overlap the shoulderseams for the
front and back, and trace the edge and side seams down about four
inches. Then, measure over all around the traced edge 2-1/2 inches.

Teri

Dear Liz,

If you have a fitted bodice, baste it up in muslin, then mark the
seamline on the front where you want it. (The seamline, not the cut
line.) On the back, pinch out what is not needed. Remember that the
most attractive sleeveless armhole is one that fits very high under the
arm. When the fit is to your liking, rip out the shoulder seam, and
make front and back armhole templates. I use oak tag for mine (the
stuff used for manila folders). Remember to add seam allowances, so
that all you have to do is overlay your present pattern.

All professional designers make up new patterns (or designs) in muslin,
before they cut into good fabric. This is something that many people
find a waste of time--but is really a waste of good fabric if the
design/fit is not flattering.

Teri