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paper mache glues



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 20th 08, 08:42 AM posted to alt.crafts.professional,alt.sculpture,rec.crafts.misc
Diamond, Mark
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default paper mache glues

Hi,
I'm a painter and I'm thinking of using paper mache in a current work. I
want to give some small parts of the surface quite high and quite distinct
texture. The painting is in acrylics on canvas, and there is already quite a
bit of acrylic paint on the surface. So I want to make a paper mache that
will stick to an acrylic surface, take an acrylic paint and/or oil paint
after it dries, be reasonably hardy, stay stuck on to a vertical surface and
stand the test of time. Unfortunately, I'm a first-time paper mache user! I
have read a lot of recipes on the web, and I'm confused about a couple of
things. I'm hoping that someone might be able to clear up my confusion for
me. Here's my bunch of questions...

Why do all the recipes I have read use a mix of glues? (usually white glue
(PVA) and a starch glue (wheat paste)). Do I need to use two glues? If I do,
then what about methyl cellulose and PVA?

Do I need to worry about adding a fungicide? (Some people seem to worry
about this a lot...). If I do, would salt work?

Some people recommend adding small amounts of oil of cloves or linseed oil
to their pulp. What is this for? (I have been reluctant to add any oil
because I want to paint it, at least initially, with acrylics).

Some people add a small amount of bleach when preparing their pulp. Is this
to make the paper white? or for some other reason??

I'd appreciate hearing any thoughts you have. I'd also really appreciate
hearing whether you have tried doing somethinbg similar to what I have
described.

Thanks!

Angela


Ads
  #2  
Old July 22nd 08, 11:40 PM posted to alt.crafts.professional,alt.sculpture,rec.crafts.misc
dan s
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default paper mache glues

If you want small areas, you are not really in the paper mache
bailiwick. If acrylic paint plus fine-shredded paper give the texture
you want I'd go that way, since it will surely stick better than these
other glues. They are intended for larger, cheaper construction
(mountains in model railroading? 4th grade art projects?)
I think pulverized nut shells can also be mixed with paint for a
workable gunk.
But the essence of PAINTING is to do it in 2 dimensions.
Dan
Lifecast-art.com


In article ,
"Diamond, Mark" wrote:

Hi,
I'm a painter and I'm thinking of using paper mache in a current work. I
want to give some small parts of the surface quite high and quite distinct
texture. The painting is in acrylics on canvas, and there is already quite a
bit of acrylic paint on the surface. So I want to make a paper mache that
will stick to an acrylic surface, take an acrylic paint and/or oil paint
after it dries, be reasonably hardy, stay stuck on to a vertical surface and
stand the test of time. Unfortunately, I'm a first-time paper mache user! I
have read a lot of recipes on the web, and I'm confused about a couple of
things. I'm hoping that someone might be able to clear up my confusion for
me. Here's my bunch of questions...

Why do all the recipes I have read use a mix of glues? (usually white glue
(PVA) and a starch glue (wheat paste)). Do I need to use two glues? If I do,
then what about methyl cellulose and PVA?

Do I need to worry about adding a fungicide? (Some people seem to worry
about this a lot...). If I do, would salt work?

Some people recommend adding small amounts of oil of cloves or linseed oil
to their pulp. What is this for? (I have been reluctant to add any oil
because I want to paint it, at least initially, with acrylics).

Some people add a small amount of bleach when preparing their pulp. Is this
to make the paper white? or for some other reason??

I'd appreciate hearing any thoughts you have. I'd also really appreciate
hearing whether you have tried doing somethinbg similar to what I have
described.

Thanks!

Angela

  #3  
Old July 26th 08, 02:25 AM posted to alt.crafts.professional,alt.sculpture,rec.crafts.misc
Diamond, Mark
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default paper mache glues


"Dan S" wrote in message
...
If you want small areas, you are not really in the paper mache
bailiwick. If acrylic paint plus fine-shredded paper give the texture
you want I'd go that way, since it will surely stick better than these
other glues. They are intended for larger, cheaper construction
(mountains in model railroading? 4th grade art projects?)
I think pulverized nut shells can also be mixed with paint for a
workable gunk.



Thank you, Dan, I'll try out your suggestions and see how they go.

But the essence of PAINTING is to do it in 2 dimensions.
Dan


I think someone must have forgotten to tell Pablo ... but then, he ended up
a complete "nobody" and I don't want that to happen to me!

Angela


Lifecast-art.com


In article ,
"" wrote:

Hi,
I'm a painter and I'm thinking of using paper mache in a current work. I
want to give some small parts of the surface quite high and quite
distinct
texture. The painting is in acrylics on canvas, and there is already
quite a
bit of acrylic paint on the surface. So I want to make a paper mache that
will stick to an acrylic surface, take an acrylic paint and/or oil paint
after it dries, be reasonably hardy, stay stuck on to a vertical surface
and
stand the test of time. Unfortunately, I'm a first-time paper mache user!
I
have read a lot of recipes on the web, and I'm confused about a couple of
things. I'm hoping that someone might be able to clear up my confusion
for
me. Here's my bunch of questions...

Why do all the recipes I have read use a mix of glues? (usually white
glue
(PVA) and a starch glue (wheat paste)). Do I need to use two glues? If I
do,
then what about methyl cellulose and PVA?

Do I need to worry about adding a fungicide? (Some people seem to worry
about this a lot...). If I do, would salt work?

Some people recommend adding small amounts of oil of cloves or linseed
oil
to their pulp. What is this for? (I have been reluctant to add any oil
because I want to paint it, at least initially, with acrylics).

Some people add a small amount of bleach when preparing their pulp. Is
this
to make the paper white? or for some other reason??

I'd appreciate hearing any thoughts you have. I'd also really appreciate
hearing whether you have tried doing somethinbg similar to what I have
described.

Thanks!

Angela



  #4  
Old August 4th 08, 12:55 AM posted to alt.crafts.professional,alt.sculpture,rec.crafts.misc
Andrew Werby
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default paper mache glues


"Diamond, Mark" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I'm a painter and I'm thinking of using paper mache in a current work. I
want to give some small parts of the surface quite high and quite distinct
texture. The painting is in acrylics on canvas, and there is already quite
a bit of acrylic paint on the surface. So I want to make a paper mache
that will stick to an acrylic surface, take an acrylic paint and/or oil
paint after it dries, be reasonably hardy, stay stuck on to a vertical
surface and stand the test of time. Unfortunately, I'm a first-time paper
mache user! I have read a lot of recipes on the web, and I'm confused
about a couple of things. I'm hoping that someone might be able to clear
up my confusion for me. Here's my bunch of questions...

Why do all the recipes I have read use a mix of glues? (usually white glue
(PVA) and a starch glue (wheat paste)). Do I need to use two glues? If I
do, then what about methyl cellulose and PVA?


[That could work - why don't you try it and get back to us? I've used
straight PVA before, and it worked fine. The wheat paste adds a filler, and
some body, but it makes it attractive to critters. Paper mache works best,
though, if it's done the traditional way, with layers of paper and glue. As
a thick clay-like mixture of paper pulp and glue(s) intended for adhesion to
your canvases, it would work poorly, I'd think. Think of a big wet cookie
slapped on there, slowly drying, crusting over, shrinking and growing
mold...]

Do I need to worry about adding a fungicide? (Some people seem to worry
about this a lot...). If I do, would salt work?


[That might help with the mold part.]

Some people recommend adding small amounts of oil of cloves or linseed oil
to their pulp. What is this for? (I have been reluctant to add any oil
because I want to paint it, at least initially, with acrylics).


[The clove probably makes it smell better, might repel some insects. I never
heard of the linseed oil, but there are lots of linseed putties (which, of
course, are more compatible with oil paints than acrylics.)]

Some people add a small amount of bleach when preparing their pulp. Is
this to make the paper white? or for some other reason??


[That helps keep the bacteria at bay, at least for a while...]

I'd appreciate hearing any thoughts you have. I'd also really appreciate
hearing whether you have tried doing somethinbg similar to what I have
described.

Thanks!

Angela


[I've done things with traditional paper mache, and have tried out
"Cellu-clay" pulp, but found the latter of limited usefulness due to its
inability to set up well in any thickness. I really don't think it's going
to work too well in your application either. Look into modeling pastes, or
mix your own from acrylic medium and marble dust (aka calcium carbonate).
That's more likely to stick successfully to canvas, although this sort of
thing always works better on a more solid substrate, like a wooden panel. If
you want to work in textural paper mache, I'd say ditch the canvas and make
your whole piece as a thin but continuous layer of paper mache, maybe laid
on a screen, which can easily be painted with acrylics.]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com





 




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