A crafts forum. CraftBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » CraftBanter forum » Craft related newsgroups » Pottery
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Kiln not heating up as much any more



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old September 8th 03, 10:14 AM
Uncle John
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Kiln not heating up as much any more

"Wendy Cyrenne" wrote in
:

Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year
ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum
recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to
that temperature.

I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that
possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't.
I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear
whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it.

Thanks.

Wendy




You may find that one of your elements has broken. Don't despair, repair.

Turn you kiln on for a little while so that the elements heat up. Turn
the power off at the wall or unplug your kiln. Open the kiln and then
touch each element with a damp sponge. (I use my sponge on a stick that I
use in my pots). The elements and circuit that is okay will sizzle when
touched by the wet sponge, the one or circuit that is broken won't.

When the kiln has cooled down you can join the broken elements together
and you will be away again.

John W
Ads
  #2  
Old September 8th 03, 12:46 PM
Jake Loddington
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Wendy Cyrenne
writes
Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago.
At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum
recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that
temperature.

I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible?
I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking
of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there
has had this problem and how did you fix it.

Thanks.

Wendy


In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once
every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100,
certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm.

Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long
single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of
Kanthal dangling into the kiln.

I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it?

Regards

Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK
  #3  
Old September 8th 03, 07:07 PM
Andrew Werby
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Wendy Cyrenne" wrote in message
...
Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year

ago.
At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum
recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that
temperature.

I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that

possible?
I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was

thinking
of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there
has had this problem and how did you fix it.

Thanks.

Wendy

[Before you rip out your elements, make sure it's not a bad switch that's
causing the problem. The switches are easier and cheaper to replace, and
they go bad more frequently. Cress has replacement switches, and they come
with instructions on how to do the repair. See http://www.cressmfg.com/ for
more info.]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com


  #4  
Old September 8th 03, 08:15 PM
AndWhyNot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 12:46:39 +0100, Jake Loddington
wrote:

In article , Wendy Cyrenne
writes
Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago.
At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum
recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that
temperature.

I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible?
I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking
of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there
has had this problem and how did you fix it.

Thanks.

Wendy


In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once
every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100,
certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm.

Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long
single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of
Kanthal dangling into the kiln.

I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it?


With great difficulty ............ used elements are as brittle as
hell .......... and also poking wet sponges into the kiln is
dangerous.

Depending on the type of kiln the could be more than one circuit.

Gently poke a small peice of tissue paper (but do not touch) on all
the element levels, turn on for 20 mins or so ............. no burnt
tissue paper = broken element wire circuit, also check the wiring and
switches as well... ALSO, but you did not say, if you fire with a
controller, check that as well.

Keep damp sponges out of the way!!
  #5  
Old September 9th 03, 12:17 AM
Steve Mills
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the
power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a
long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is
OK, if not it ain't!
Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide
increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly
inefficient.
If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small
blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long
thin ones!).
I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective
as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the
long run.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article m,
AndWhyNot writes
On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 12:46:39 +0100, Jake Loddington
wrote:

In article , Wendy Cyrenne
writes
Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago.
At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum
recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that
temperature.

I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible?
I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking
of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there
has had this problem and how did you fix it.

Thanks.

Wendy


In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once
every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100,
certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm.

Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long
single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of
Kanthal dangling into the kiln.

I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it?


With great difficulty ............ used elements are as brittle as
hell .......... and also poking wet sponges into the kiln is
dangerous.

Depending on the type of kiln the could be more than one circuit.

Gently poke a small peice of tissue paper (but do not touch) on all
the element levels, turn on for 20 mins or so ............. no burnt
tissue paper = broken element wire circuit, also check the wiring and
switches as well... ALSO, but you did not say, if you fire with a
controller, check that as well.

Keep damp sponges out of the way!!


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
  #6  
Old September 9th 03, 01:47 PM
Bob Masta
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills
wrote:

I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the
power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a
long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is
OK, if not it ain't!
Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide
increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly
inefficient.
If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small
blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long
thin ones!).
I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective
as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the
long run.

Steve
Bath
UK


Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up?
Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are.
You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working
elements start to glow a little, and then you would see
the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking
things onto fragile Kanthal.




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com
  #7  
Old September 9th 03, 09:21 PM
Eddie Daughton
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Trouble with that is that most modern kilns have a safety interlock to stop
you firing with the lid open.....("£"!"$£%$ men with clipboards)
Eddie
"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills
wrote:

I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the
power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a
long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is
OK, if not it ain't!
Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide
increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly
inefficient.
If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small
blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long
thin ones!).
I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective
as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the
long run.

Steve
Bath
UK


Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up?
Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are.
You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working
elements start to glow a little, and then you would see
the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking
things onto fragile Kanthal.




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com



  #8  
Old September 9th 03, 11:56 PM
Steve Mills
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Bob Masta
writes
On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills
wrote:

I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the
power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a
long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is
OK, if not it ain't!
Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide
increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly
inefficient.
If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small
blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long
thin ones!).
I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective
as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the
long run.

Steve
Bath
UK


Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up?
Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are.
You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working
elements start to glow a little, and then you would see
the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking
things onto fragile Kanthal.

In the UK all kiln lids and doors have a safety switch which shuts off
power when they are opened unless they are VERY old!

Steve



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Important - Please beware of a company called Bohle Eric Russell Glass 2 August 23rd 04 07:46 PM
F/A @ EBAY Electric Kiln BATMAN.ROBIN Marketplace 0 September 17th 03 10:51 PM
Raku FAQs Tom Buck Pottery 0 July 20th 03 04:49 AM
FAQ:Intro to rec.crafts.pottery Mishy Lowe Pottery 0 July 18th 03 06:05 AM
Kiln question Kalera Stratton Beads 13 July 11th 03 06:35 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CraftBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.