Linings

Hey,
I am making a skirt which calls for interfacing, but the fabric that I'm
using is a little see through so I'm wanting to line it. after reading the
"I Hate facings" posts I've decided to just use the lining and not worry
about the interfacing. I've made a shirt with a lining before but never a
skirt with a lining, although I have made this skirt before in a different
fabric.
Here comes the questions:
1. the skirt has a back zipper, how would I go about inserting it with
the lining; before or after the lining; in-between the lining and the fabric
or on the inside of both
2. Hem: can i shorten the lining and use the seam between the lining and
the fabric as my hem; if not how would I go about doing the hem
3. the top where the interfacing is supposed to go: do i just sew the
lining and fabric together or is there more to it than that (it seems too
easy)
4. darts: do i need to make alterations to the lining for the darts;
would the darts be done before the lining is inserted


Here is the order that I'm considering as of now:
1. darts
2. trim bottom of lining
3. sew lining to fabric at top and bottom
4. side seams and back seam to edge of zipper
5. zipper

I don't know if this order will work out right or not as I do not have much
experience with linings...any help would be greatly
appreciated....thanks!!!!

Karen

I like to just put the lining in it and then treat is as you would a single
layer of fabric...........tailors will spin when I say this, but it is a
great deal less trouble that way.

"Karen" wrote in message
...
Hey,
I am making a skirt which calls for interfacing, but the fabric that
I'm
using is a little see through so I'm wanting to line it. after reading the
"I Hate facings" posts I've decided to just use the lining and not worry
about the interfacing. I've made a shirt with a lining before but never a
skirt with a lining, although I have made this skirt before in a different
fabric.
Here comes the questions:
1. the skirt has a back zipper, how would I go about inserting it with
the lining; before or after the lining; in-between the lining and the
fabric
or on the inside of both
2. Hem: can i shorten the lining and use the seam between the lining
and
the fabric as my hem; if not how would I go about doing the hem
3. the top where the interfacing is supposed to go: do i just sew the
lining and fabric together or is there more to it than that (it seems too
easy)
4. darts: do i need to make alterations to the lining for the darts;
would the darts be done before the lining is inserted


Here is the order that I'm considering as of now:
1. darts
2. trim bottom of lining
3. sew lining to fabric at top and bottom
4. side seams and back seam to edge of zipper
5. zipper

I don't know if this order will work out right or not as I do not have
much
experience with linings...any help would be greatly
appreciated....thanks!!!!

Karen

Karen wrote:


I'll intersperse my comments, coz I has a few!

Hey,
I am making a skirt which calls for interfacing, but the fabric that I'm
using is a little see through so I'm wanting to line it. after reading the
"I Hate facings" posts I've decided to just use the lining and not worry
about the interfacing. I've made a shirt with a lining before but never a
skirt with a lining, although I have made this skirt before in a different
fabric.

The interlining and facing add strength as well as finishing off the
inside. You will need to replace this with something if you are lining
from a waistline down rather than using a pattern with a waistband.

Here comes the questions:
1. the skirt has a back zipper, how would I go about inserting it with
the lining; before or after the lining; in-between the lining and the fabric
or on the inside of both

Between them, slip stitching the lining to the zipper tape on the
inside. Gives a much neater and more comfortable finish, and is less
bulky. You sew the zipper to the skirt as if it were to be unlined, and
then finish it off after sewing the lining and skirt together at the
waist.

2. Hem: can i shorten the lining and use the seam between the lining and
the fabric as my hem; if not how would I go about doing the hem

Use a hem on the lining about an inch deep, turned up to the 'outside',
so the hem is between the two layers. The lining needs the weight of
the hem to help to prevent it riding up. Make it a little shorter than
the skirt, so it doesn't show at the bottom. If you stitch it to the
skirt hem all round, you risk it all pulling out of shape - it will hang
and look better separate.

If the skirt is very full at the hem, try rolling the edge of the lining
fabric.

If this is a fitted skirt, and you want to avoid the lining drifting
away from the outer fabric, anchor them at the side seams with a French
Tack about an inch long, a couple of inches above the hem.

3. the top where the interfacing is supposed to go: do i just sew the
lining and fabric together or is there more to it than that (it seems too
easy)

Use some pre-shrunk twill tape in there to add strength, and understitch
on the inside.

4. darts: do i need to make alterations to the lining for the darts;
would the darts be done before the lining is inserted

Make your lining like an exact inside out copy of the skirt, darts and
all! It should fit exactly the same way. Once made up, pop it inside
the skirt, matching darts and seams. A good trick for avoiding bulk at
the darts is to press the lining darts the opposite way from the fashion
fabric darts.

Here is the order that I'm considering as of now:
1. darts
2. trim bottom of lining
3. sew lining to fabric at top and bottom
4. side seams and back seam to edge of zipper
5. zipper

I don't know if this order will work out right or not as I do not have much
experience with linings...any help would be greatly
appreciated....thanks!!!!

Karen

--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:08:48 -0400, Karen wrote:
Hey,
I am making a skirt which calls for interfacing, but the fabric that I'm
using is a little see through so I'm wanting to line it. after reading the
"I Hate facings" posts I've decided to just use the lining and not worry
about the interfacing.

Interfacing where? In hems, it hangs much better with interfacing; with
waistbands, interfacing keeps skirt bands from rolling and bunching.

There are a lot of considerations with how you handle lining, depending
on the style, the weight of lining and face fabric, whether you intend
to be able to alter it easily, etc., etc. Typically, linings fall free
of the inside of the garment, attached only at opening (waist or neckline
and armholes) and not at hems.

Linings are also typically shorter than the garment, as lining fabric
tends to be a little more stretchy.

Typically on a skirt or pair of pants, I cut the lining several inches
shorter than the finished garment, make it up as if it were a separate
garment body, then baste it together with the face fabric at the waistband.
Apply the waistband as if the skirt body was one. (makes it a pain to
reline something, however). I usually tack the lining's zipper opening
to the zipper tape in the face skirt by hand; hand sewing is a little more
limber than a machine seam.

Note that with this method, you're going to see the seam allowances through
your face fabric, since you say it's not opaque.

You might instead consider underlining it, joining "lining" fabric to the
face fabric by basting at the edges, and treating the two layers as one.
Or the slightly fancier method of putting face and lining fabric pieces
together rightsides together, stitching around the edge, then trimming,
turning right side out, pressing, and then using it as a single piece of
fabric. This method is easiest when seams are straight (makes it really
tough to clip curves!) and you know the garment has been adjusted to fit,
and you can stand the extra bulk of the enclosed seam allowances.