If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
cutting your own basswood?
I have basswood trees available for me to cut locally, but am not sure of
the best way to properly season the wood for carving. It seems to me that now would be the best time to cut the trees because the sap isn't running in winter. Is this assumption correct? Also should I leave it in logs to cure or should I rough it into blanks sized for carving? Is it benificial to wax or paint the ends to stop cracking? My plan is to stack it in the basement where it is warm and dry. About how long do you think it would take 2 or 3 inch thick peices to be ready for carving? Have any of you had luck carving green basswood without it cracking and ruining your carvings? Thanks for your thoughts on the subject, Steve |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Check a local sawyer; find out when *he* logs out Basswood.
DEBARK, and cut to rough size immediately (critters in the bark may EAT it up otherwise!) Definitely paint the ends (good use for all those old partial buckets of paint). Allow 1 year per INCH OF THICKNESS for seasoning (less if you forced it in a kiln). JK Steve wrote: I have basswood trees available for me to cut locally, but am not sure of the best way to properly season the wood for carving. It seems to me that now would be the best time to cut the trees because the sap isn't running in winter. Is this assumption correct? Also should I leave it in logs to cure or should I rough it into blanks sized for carving? Is it benificial to wax or paint the ends to stop cracking? My plan is to stack it in the basement where it is warm and dry. About how long do you think it would take 2 or 3 inch thick peices to be ready for carving? Have any of you had luck carving green basswood without it cracking and ruining your carvings? Thanks for your thoughts on the subject, Steve |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:45:36 -0500, "Steve"
wrote: I have basswood trees available for me to cut locally, but am not sure of the best way to properly season the wood for carving. IMHE, basswood is one of the easiest timbers to season. I've got air-dried slabs of it here, 4" thick, 6 or 7 years old (but was dry some time before this - year an inch is probably generous). There's a little checking at the ends, but it doesn't go far and the middle of the log is unaffected. All that it had done was the ends sealed, then stacked and stickered as usual. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Extremely generous. But that points up one difficulty with seasoning this
time of year - it's too dry indoors most places. If you bring even a winter cut (dryer) piece indoors right now, you could have checking and case-hardening problems. My recommendation, if in a cool climate, drop the bass 1 month before the end of heating season, prepare your blocks or planks with sealed ends, and bring them in when the RH is climbing. Two winters indoors will take 4" stuff down below 12%, which is OK for carving in most places. Don't leave the wood "in the log" too long after felling. Bass browns quickly. "Andy Dingley" wrote in message news On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:45:36 -0500, "Steve" wrote: I have basswood trees available for me to cut locally, but am not sure of the best way to properly season the wood for carving. IMHE, basswood is one of the easiest timbers to season. I've got air-dried slabs of it here, 4" thick, 6 or 7 years old (but was dry some time before this - year an inch is probably generous). There's a little checking at the ends, but it doesn't go far and the middle of the log is unaffected. All that it had done was the ends sealed, then stacked and stickered as usual. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 06:48:55 -0500, "George"
wrote: Extremely generous. But that points up one difficulty with seasoning this time of year - it's too dry indoors most places. I'm in the UK. Winter is only moderately cold, but damp. These boards were stored in a well-ventilated unheated shed. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Sounds like you meet the New England "rule of thumb" drying instructions to
a "T." Now the OP might not.... "Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 06:48:55 -0500, "George" wrote: Extremely generous. But that points up one difficulty with seasoning this time of year - it's too dry indoors most places. I'm in the UK. Winter is only moderately cold, but damp. These boards were stored in a well-ventilated unheated shed. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
best way is if you live next to a stream or river. Tie the wood up and throw it
in, Seasons in a quarter of the time if the currant runs over it.. Steve |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Basswood is usually cut during the cold season when the sap is down.
This gives a much better color wood and can remain in the log for some time without spoiling as long as it is cold. Basswood will spoil very quickly in the log during hot weather but if milled immediately the wood will be acceptable for carving. Summer cut wood will get yellowish streaks or discoloration even if it is milled and dried properly. The wood needs to be milled and stickered where adequate air can get through the packet. The winter cut and stacked wood will start drying if air can get through the packet but the top layer should either be throw away wood or possibly tin covering to prevent moisture from getting into the pile. The sides must be open for air circulation. The thicker pieces (over 2") should be sealed on the ends to cut down the checking. The year per inch is a very favorable time but can be shortened by moving air with a fan or placing in a solar type environment. I work with a fellow that initially dries the wood in the open air for several months (wood cut in winter dry over the summer) then puts the wood into the loft of an old dairy barn for the final drying. We have been processing several 1K feet of Northern basswood for the past several years. Dick Steve wrote: I have basswood trees available for me to cut locally, but am not sure of the best way to properly season the wood for carving. It seems to me that now would be the best time to cut the trees because the sap isn't running in winter. Is this assumption correct? Also should I leave it in logs to cure or should I rough it into blanks sized for carving? Is it benificial to wax or paint the ends to stop cracking? My plan is to stack it in the basement where it is warm and dry. About how long do you think it would take 2 or 3 inch thick peices to be ready for carving? Have any of you had luck carving green basswood without it cracking and ruining your carvings? Thanks for your thoughts on the subject, Steve |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Swarovski cutting through fireline question | Marisa Cappetta | Beads | 4 | August 22nd 04 07:31 PM |
Basswood carving | bubba | Carving | 1 | October 6th 03 04:35 PM |
Microscope Slide - Glass Cutting Jig | MaryJLind | Beads | 6 | September 10th 03 02:03 PM |
cutting softflex | LiisaAnn | Beads | 1 | July 8th 03 08:42 PM |