If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Kiln not heating up as much any more
"Wendy Cyrenne" wrote in
: Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that temperature. I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. Thanks. Wendy You may find that one of your elements has broken. Don't despair, repair. Turn you kiln on for a little while so that the elements heat up. Turn the power off at the wall or unplug your kiln. Open the kiln and then touch each element with a damp sponge. (I use my sponge on a stick that I use in my pots). The elements and circuit that is okay will sizzle when touched by the wet sponge, the one or circuit that is broken won't. When the kiln has cooled down you can join the broken elements together and you will be away again. John W |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In article , Wendy Cyrenne
writes Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that temperature. I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. Thanks. Wendy In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100, certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm. Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of Kanthal dangling into the kiln. I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it? Regards Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Wendy Cyrenne" wrote in message ... Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that temperature. I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. Thanks. Wendy [Before you rip out your elements, make sure it's not a bad switch that's causing the problem. The switches are easier and cheaper to replace, and they go bad more frequently. Cress has replacement switches, and they come with instructions on how to do the repair. See http://www.cressmfg.com/ for more info.] Andrew Werby www.unitedartworks.com |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 12:46:39 +0100, Jake Loddington
wrote: In article , Wendy Cyrenne writes Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that temperature. I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. Thanks. Wendy In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100, certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm. Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of Kanthal dangling into the kiln. I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it? With great difficulty ............ used elements are as brittle as hell .......... and also poking wet sponges into the kiln is dangerous. Depending on the type of kiln the could be more than one circuit. Gently poke a small peice of tissue paper (but do not touch) on all the element levels, turn on for 20 mins or so ............. no burnt tissue paper = broken element wire circuit, also check the wiring and switches as well... ALSO, but you did not say, if you fire with a controller, check that as well. Keep damp sponges out of the way!! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the
power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is OK, if not it ain't! Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly inefficient. If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long thin ones!). I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the long run. Steve Bath UK In article m, AndWhyNot writes On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 12:46:39 +0100, Jake Loddington wrote: In article , Wendy Cyrenne writes Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to that temperature. I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. Thanks. Wendy In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100, certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm. Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of Kanthal dangling into the kiln. I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it? With great difficulty ............ used elements are as brittle as hell .......... and also poking wet sponges into the kiln is dangerous. Depending on the type of kiln the could be more than one circuit. Gently poke a small peice of tissue paper (but do not touch) on all the element levels, turn on for 20 mins or so ............. no burnt tissue paper = broken element wire circuit, also check the wiring and switches as well... ALSO, but you did not say, if you fire with a controller, check that as well. Keep damp sponges out of the way!! -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills
wrote: I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is OK, if not it ain't! Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly inefficient. If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long thin ones!). I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the long run. Steve Bath UK Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up? Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are. You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working elements start to glow a little, and then you would see the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking things onto fragile Kanthal. Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis Shareware from Interstellar Research www.daqarta.com |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Trouble with that is that most modern kilns have a safety interlock to stop
you firing with the lid open.....("£"!"$£%$ men with clipboards) Eddie "Bob Masta" wrote in message ... On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills wrote: I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is OK, if not it ain't! Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly inefficient. If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long thin ones!). I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the long run. Steve Bath UK Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up? Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are. You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working elements start to glow a little, and then you would see the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking things onto fragile Kanthal. Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis Shareware from Interstellar Research www.daqarta.com |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
In article , Bob Masta
writes On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 00:17:08 +0100, Steve Mills wrote: I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is OK, if not it ain't! Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly inefficient. If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long thin ones!). I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the long run. Steve Bath UK Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up? Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are. You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working elements start to glow a little, and then you would see the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking things onto fragile Kanthal. In the UK all kiln lids and doors have a safety switch which shuts off power when they are opened unless they are VERY old! Steve Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis Shareware from Interstellar Research www.daqarta.com -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Important - Please beware of a company called Bohle | Eric Russell | Glass | 2 | August 23rd 04 07:46 PM |
F/A @ EBAY Electric Kiln | BATMAN.ROBIN | Marketplace | 0 | September 17th 03 10:51 PM |
Raku FAQs | Tom Buck | Pottery | 0 | July 20th 03 04:49 AM |
FAQ:Intro to rec.crafts.pottery | Mishy Lowe | Pottery | 0 | July 18th 03 06:05 AM |
Kiln question | Kalera Stratton | Beads | 13 | July 11th 03 06:35 AM |