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#1
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Faux Western Yokes?
I'm trying to adapt a shirt pattern to do a faux western yoke. I've been
doing these short-sleeve "sport" shirts out of contrasting batik fabrics. The fronts and backs of the shirt, and collar, are one fabric, and the yoke and sleeves are another fabric. The first one I did was with very bright collars, and the contrasts popped out. This one I just did was with more muted colors, and I'm feeling the need to show more contrasting material on the front of the shirt, and to either lengthen the yoke in the back (and shorten the back piece) or to do a yoke that comes to a point in th middle of the back. I'm looking in my Reader's Digest sewing book, and its not clear how the shirt body is being constructed there for the western style yoke. It almost looks like the back piece is sewn to the front piece at the shoulder seam, with no hidden yoke piece, and then the pointed visible yoke pieces are sewn on as an applique. I want those body shaping darts at the back/yoke seam, so just sewing the back to the front piece won't be a good idea. I do two darts, one near each shoulder blade, not two darts in the middle. So, I'm not sure if I've been clear here, but can someone give me some feedback on this type of construction? Coffin's Shirtmaking book is silent on the subject. Dwight PS Hi all. I've been on a sewing sabbatical. Just did two shirts in the last three days, and am about to start on a herringbone weave shirt (cotton). |
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#2
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duh who wrote:
I'm feeling the need to show more contrasting material on the front of the shirt, and to either lengthen the yoke in the back (and shorten the back piece) or to do a yoke that comes to a point in th middle of the back. I'm looking in my Reader's Digest sewing book, [...] It almost looks like the back piece is sewn to the front piece at the shoulder seam, with no hidden yoke piece, and then the pointed visible yoke pieces are sewn on as an applique. I want those body shaping darts at the back/yoke seam, so just sewing the back to the front piece won't be a good idea. I do two darts, one near each shoulder blade, not two darts in the middle. I just took a look at DH's RTW denim shirts. Some of them have pointed "yokes" which are actually visible pieces sewn on as an applique, and some of them have straight yokes with no hidden lining piece. I don't see any reason why you couldn't construct the yoke just as you want to. A straight one would be much easier to sew, but you can also do the pointed style with a true yoke--it's trickier sewing, but you can do it. You'll need to slash the shirt back to the sewing line at the point, in order to turn the point when sewing it. Slash straight down at the V to the sewing line, and then pin or baste carefully so that the yoke piece matches right at that point on the sewing line. Practice on a bit of scrap to get the hang of it. -- Kathy - read reviews of other newsgroups in news:news.groups.reviews help for new users of newsgroups at http://www.aptalaska.net/~kmorgan/ Good Net Keeping Seal of Approval at http://www.gnksa.org/ OE-quotefix can fix OE: http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/ |
#3
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That true pointed yoke scares me. Hell, I don't even do pockets due to the
curved seam allowance and trying to baste/iron/sew it. So get yourself some lightweight cardboard (like shirtboard or oaktag) and cut your pocket shape or whatever out of it *with no seam allowance*. Reduce seam allowance on the piece of fabric you cut to 3/8". Put the cardboard over the fabric, and dab the protruding edges of the fabric with starch; let it soak in for a minute, and then, with the tip of your iron, push the seam allowance of the fabric up over the template and press it dry. Continue. You now have a nice, firm, shaped edge for sewing once you remove your template. See Carol Ahles' book, Fine Machine Sewing, the bit on scallops, for more on the technique. |
#4
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duh who wrote:
That true pointed yoke scares me. Hell, I don't even do pockets due to the curved seam allowance and trying to baste/iron/sew it. I don't think it would be too bad, as long as you draw the pattern carefully and then at least pin the point--stab through the seamline at the point from the one fabric to the matching point on the other fabric. I may just start with creating some front yoke extensions and try those at first. Its not really a "western" shirt. I just want to extend the contrasting elements. But, with your nudge, I may try something along these lines. Does his shirts have a box pleat or single pleats in the back? Neither--these have no shaping built in. If I were sewing one that did have a pleat or pleats, I believe I'd machine baste them before stitching the yoke, just to make sure they behaved. -- Kathy |
#5
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On Mon, 01 Sep 2003 15:08:27 GMT, duh who wrote:
I tried something like that, except it was spray starch, and the cardboard was warping because of that. I want to get a bit of thin aluminum, cut to shape, so it will be impervious. Its just doing it that is the problem. You can always spray the starch into the lid, then dab it on. You can also buy liquid starch in a jug, usually a couple of quarts, in the laundry aisle in many grocery stores. Or you can make it yourself... just make up a cornstarch slurry in cold water and cook it on the stove, or in the microwave, stirring every 15 sec in the microwave, constantly on the stove. There are also high-melt-point plastics (Templar is one brand) that can take this treatment, though they won't tolerate a hot iron placed on the plastic. As long as you keep the iron tip just on the starch-wetted fabric, you're fine. I use tagboard for one-shot templates, plastic for ones that will see common use. Freezer paper works for some, too... trace the shape, iron it on the back side of the fabric, moisten the edge of the fabric with starch, press, then remove the freezer paper. Kay Lancaster |
#7
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On Mon, 01 Sep 2003 15:08:27 GMT, "duh who"
wrote: I'll try your technique. Where do I get the liquid starch? Any grocery. It may be hard to find because the bottles are small, and only one shows. (Nobody will buy starch who isn't hunting for it, so they don't bother to push it.) A quarter-inch slice off the end of a cellulose sponge makes an excellent brush for applying starch. Dampen it enough to make it soft before each use, then allow it to dry to preserve it for later use. Joy Beeson -- http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ -- needlework http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ -- Writers' Exchange joy beeson at earthlink dot net |
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