If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Ads |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
wrote in message
oups.com... I can't imagine wearing trousers made from this fabric so I guess I will have to stick with jackets and coats. Trousers can be fully lined...??? ;-) I would be interested in the titles of the books that you found the most helpful. Perhaps we could compare notes. Along with most everything else, all my sewing books are in the disaster area I call my sewing room. Until I finally get everything re-organized, I can't lay my hands on the box full of books. I *think* the one I liked best for tailoring techniques was put out by Vogue, but I know I had several I consulted pretty regularly. I have Poulin, CTT, Hostek and a Singer book. They all have their use and their worts. I used the formula for drafting the pattern in Poulin, I haven't ever found the need to draft patterns, although I don't think I've followed a commercial pattern exactly as written since abut 5th grade...fifty-five years ago. :-\ Beverly |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Jack Schmidling wrote:
BEI Design wrote: I haven't ever found the need to draft patterns, although I don't think I've followed a commercial pattern exactly as written.... I think if you spend the next few weeks trying to find a commercial pattern for a man's suit coat you will understand why I drafted one. It was not by choice but having done it, I will probably never have to buy a pattern again. js Did you look at this one: http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1 I found the Vogue suit pattern very good when I made it a few years back, and it needed only a minor adjustment for my husband's very square shoulders. http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=2 -- Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore! |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Great job, Marilyn! I taught myself some basic knitting last winter
and well, let's say I have passed the knitting a dish rag stage! Those purls beat me! |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Jack Schmidling wrote:
Kate Dicey wrote: Did you look at this one: http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin...I=20014&page=1 As a matter of fact, I purchased that pattern and made a muslin up to a point. At the time I was trying to make a heavy winter coat and decided this was going the wrong way. After a diligent hunt I found a pea coat pattern that seemed more appropriate. After finishing that, I wanted to go classic hand tailoring and the Vogue didn't seem to fit. In retrospect, I suppose I could use some of the basic pieces but didn't enough about how to integrate it into hand tailoring. As a point of interest, I am working on a Winter coat for my wife based on a old coat she has but last night I dug out Vogue get some ideas on the interfacing and facing. It is not quite clear what to do with the interfacing for this. Do I even need it for this sort of coat? js For a classic wool ladies tailored coat, yes. BUT!! You don't need to do all the front interfacing layers that you do with a man's coat or jacket. Just use one layer down the fronts, pad stitched like you would for men's coats & jackets, and really it only needs to cover the button/buttonhole area, and round the base of the collar, so make it about 4" wide, and shaped round the lapels. Do interface the upper collar in exactly the same way as a man's collar, but remember that rather than a fitted felt under collar, you will be sewing a top fabric one in by machine. You can join the under collar with a centre back seam if you need to cut it in two pars. Cut it a smigeon smaller than the top collar, and ease the two together as you sew. This will ensure that the top collar wraps round slightly to the under side, giving a better looking edge. Grade all the seams carefully round the collar, and when you turn it, be very careful NOT to poke it through at the corners! Do use/make good shoulder pads: they don't need to be thick, but they do need to be there. The sleeve head will be supported in exactly the same way as a man's sleeve head if they are traditional set-in sleeves. Ladies coats traditionally have bound buttonholes. They look fantastic done properly. I find a wee bit of fusible interfacing for each one helps enormously! I'd send you some pix, only I can't use the scanner at the moment! -- Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore! |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Jack Schmidling wrote:
I will rise to the challenge just that big spool of silk buttonhole twist that I bought. js Silk buttonhole twist will never go to waste. There are so many uses. Or you could just send it to me. ;-) -- Joanne stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Jack Schmidling wrote:
Kate Dicey wrote: I see on one of my patterns, I think it was the peacoat, that the interfacing was attached to the facing instead of front. Does this make sense? Yes, but with the bound buttonhole construction it is easier on the fabric. Roger but I don't think that addressed the basic question re. the interfacing on the facing vs the front. The former is simpler because I can use the facing pattern for the interfacing. You still can: just apply it to the fabric! You need the interfacing on the outer layer rather than the facing because most of the construction of the buttonhole is on the facing. The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing is one of many that has good, clear instructions with good illustrations. Haven't done that yet and I was planning of hand worked. Bound buttonholes look so dressy and take no more work. Worth the effort. And it will be a new skill for you. The way you are going, you won't have any problems, but it will be nice to have another process at your finger tips! I will rise to the challenge just that big spool of silk buttonhole twist that I bought. Use it on other more appropriate projects! js -- Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore! |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Jack--
I am new to this site, so maybe you have been sharing your 'journey' with wool and sewing for awhile, but I have to say that I loved viewing ALL your photos on the blog. I have taken a hand to weaving too, and it is really a major undertaking. Your own story is inspiring, but few would be able to realize success. In fact, I have forwarded the site address to some college profs who should be sharing this with their classes: textiles and such. Aboout tailoring: You mention tailoring books. The Singer sewing library book on tailoring in the best. Also, the Fairchild Pub. books on tailoring are considered the main resource for training in the industry. Out here in S. Calif. we actually have tailors, trained in Asia (Vietnam carries the French tailoring methods, then there's Hong Kong with British tailoring etc.) as well as Central America, and Russia (French techniques here again). L.A. Trade Tech college teaches men's tailoring, and our community colleges cover women's tailoring in the least. Here in L.A. we have a store called: Levine Bros. located in Burbank, (they may have a web site-?), and you might be able to get them to send supplies if you can't find what you need else where. As for working on your own, nothing is better than taking apart a hand tailored jacket or second best--a manufactured jacket (provided by a thrift shop) and the same goes for pattern drafting--start with a coat that fits you and bust it apart to copy the pattern (knock it off). When we teach tailoring, we have several jackets that are in various stages of dis-manteling to use as guides to construction and pattern design. Good luck with your next project. --Jennifer wrote: This hand tailored jacket is my most ambitious project to date. I have been pretty much obsessed with it for the past 3 months. ja -- PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Great page and astronomy photo's! Nice job on the jacket.
John |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Photo realistic stitch help | Tim Plumlee | Needlework | 0 | July 3rd 04 09:54 AM |
FA: Sounds Of Nature Photo Frame NIB - $4 | Disgo | Marketplace | 0 | February 16th 04 02:37 PM |
On and off this week | Karen_AZ | Beads | 4 | February 2nd 04 10:48 PM |
AD ~ New leaves, flowers and HILL TRIBE silver this week! | Mj | Beads | 0 | October 8th 03 02:35 AM |
My William Holland Week | EL | Beads | 4 | July 1st 03 11:06 PM |