I have perused your site many a time. My eyes are not good enough to
actually be able to see the glazes on the size picture you show and my brain
is not nimble enough to connect what tile goes with what description. I do
keep trying though..... It is like being in a candy shop and being 5 years
old....

Thank you for the information. That is quite helpful to know (and exactly
what I was lacking without exactly knowing it).

There are two glazes on digitalfire with Alberta Slip that I really, really
like... (but I don't want to use Lithium and I can't find Alberta Slip... ).
I could imagine working with only those 2 glazes along with a marble white
very easily. These may be the two that I try to crate with chemical
analysis.... (I can fantasies right...)

Alberta Slip II Lithium Brown Cone 6
Alberta Slip Rutile Blue for Cone 6

"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
You might take a look at my website. I have a lot of cone 6 oxidation
tests
pictures with recipes listed. There is a very good calcium matt recipe
there
that I formulated based on a calcium eutectic in the Parmalee book. I
show a
few different colors -- pale green like a blue green celadon and a few
rutile
bearings ones ranging from peach to deep orange.
There are also some transparent glossy glazes as well, with a few color
variations.
Know that if you use the glaze recipes from the Mastering Glazes book,
that you
might want to use 200 mesh silica, since finer silica can cause those
glazes to
move more if you fire to a large cone 6, which is what I think those
glazes
were formulated for.
I've tested a couple of them and the chrome tin red for instance, looks
best
with a cone 7 bar cone which is equivalent to a large cone 6.
I believe that Ron Roy has, in the past, recommended 200 mesh
silica/quartz/flint as a safety factor.
For a bright blue 1% cobalt carbonate in a calcium, boron etc. glaze would
do
it. For more interest, in addtion to the cobalt, you can add 3-6& rutile
which
will give a bit more variegation and more interest. You can also add 1-2%
iron
along with the other colorants. All of those should give a pretty bright
blue,
particularly on a white body. Darker bodies will tone down the brightness,
but
you can always use a slip over a dark body if you want to to go that
route, but
still want the bright blue.
Here's my website, if you want to peruse the recipes and pictures.

http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

Warm regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/