The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a
Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Typo here? Or is this really an uneven grade (73-76 = 3cm, 76-81 = 5 cm)
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87
Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.
My personal choice would be to start with the 10, primarily because
the neck and shoulders are so strangely graded on many patterns, and
it's easier to deal with adding to side seams than it is to deal with
taking it out of the neck and upper chest, imo. If she's light framed
and clothes tend to look too big in the neck and shoulders on her, I'd
even go down to an 8, then grade out the sides and waist.
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12)
and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.
Trish, just looking at those numbers makes me uncomfortable, as that's
not a whole lot of ease. In fact, it's fairly fitted. How does *she*
like clothes to fit? Will this give her enough ease to be comfortable,
and enough ease to grow into between now and when the dress is needed?
Me, myself, and I, I'd probably trace off all three sizes onto plain
muslin (calico?)-- salvaged chunk of bedsheet that's been starched and
pressed is fine, just as long as the fabric is stable and straight--
red, blue and black ballpoint should be fine. Or anything else handy.
Cut HUGE side seam allowances.
Baste up the neck and shoulders in a 10, leave the side seams and
armscyes flappin' in the breeze at this point.
Try the muslin on her to establish if the 10 is right for her in neck
and shoulders... if not, baste it up as a 12 and try again. Then try
14 if you have to. When it looks good up to the high bust, that's the
size I'd start with. Now just plain baste up the side seams where
they fit her, toss in the sleeve you intend to use (both sleeves,
please!) check fit again, and mark your sewing lines. Take it apart,
check right/left symmetry, measure the distances between your sewing
marks and the pattern, then transfer the measurements to the pattern
piece. From there, cut your $$$$ fabric. Again, I'd leave large
seam allowances to help account for differences in drape between your
fitting garment and your "real fabric".
The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment
like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought
it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned
Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to
the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?
Your choice, two different effects.
One is to treat it something like an underlining... cut and sew as if the
two fabrics were one layer. Sparkle, not frouffiness.
Seems more in line with the cap sleeve to me.
Second choice: cut and sew separately, joining only at the armscye. More
fluff. Possibly more useful to balance pear shapes and big skirts, possibly
not to her taste. For even more separation of the two layers, you can cut
the organza a smidge bigger than the "real sleeve". With a cap sleeve,
I'd be tempted to make a copy pattern piece and slash from hemline to
seamline at the armscye and spread the hem edge perhaps 0.5 cm, then cut
the organza from the spread pattern. (armscye seamlength does not get
spread).
Do you know how to do a petal sleeve? How about petal or butterfly sleeves
in just the organza, then use the organza elsewhere on the garment too for
secondary accent, like "underlining style" over a sash, or a band near the
hem?
PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size
14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good
bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly
what
we want
Ah, then, I should have read further... there's your answer... 10 or 12 in
the shoulders, let the rest of the torso take care of itself.
Kay
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