It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!

I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I might,
I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric!

The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590.

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.

The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular and
allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a
starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing, I
don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using. The only
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.

I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a
larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size 10
(which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and tapering
out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with extra
width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby League
analogy...)!!!

The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?

Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this - I'm in a
tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-?
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia

PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what
we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and making
them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#& bodice
has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee......