Hi Jane

Thanks for all of your suggestions. As it turned out, I must have done the
tension swatch incorrectly - at least for number of rows. When I started
sleeve using these measurements, it turned out to be 5 inches too long.
I did another swatch and made sure that I followed the instructions
carfully, and then used those measurements for the sweater. I am happy to
report that I have both sleeves and the front completed and the length looks
much better.

I decided to do a ribbed edging of this sweater. As it is my first I'm
learning many things as I go along - such as the next time, I'll do the
ribbing last - either by hand or transferring the stitched back to the bed.

Again, thank you so much for your suggestions. I do appreciate it.

Nanci
"steel breeze" wrote in message
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Hi Nanci,

Regarding the tension swatch - I take it you are following a pattern?
If the pattern recommends a tension of 6, I would probably knit a
tension swatch that used tension 5.. (5 and two dots), then two rows in
a contrasting colour, then a bit at T6, 2 rows contrast, T6. , 2 rows
contrast. Wash and block as before. The tension dial controls the
stitch width, the yarn brake tension dial controls the row height.

However, when you knit something on a machine, it will always look wide
and squat - a quick tug in the vertical direction lets the stitches go
back to a more natural shape.

I'm not quite sure what kind of edge you are trying to do. You could
transfer the stitches back to the main bed if you required. Or you
could slip them onto knitting needles, and knit ribs down by hand.

If it's for a jumper welt you could do mock rib - cast on with waste
yarn, transfer every other needle over and push the empty ones to
non-working position, K one row with ravel cord. K 10 rows MT-2, 1 row
T10 (this becomes the fold row), 9 rows MT-2. Pick up the bottom
stitches from the ravel cord, and place them onto the needles that
you'd pushed into NWP. Continue with the sleeve as per the pattern -
you can pull the ravel cord out later, and you should have a mock rib
welt.

The same can be done without doing mock ribbing - after doing the 20
rows, just pick up the bottom stitches and place them onto the needles.
This creates a built-in "hem" as it were.

Hope I've explained it ok!

Regards,

Jane