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Old August 16th 03, 05:48 PM
Sam
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Lots of info in that web site(urbanclay). Firing temp would be handy to
know. I notice it says dishwasher proof, does that mean it can be cooked on
or not.?

Sam

"chan" wrote in message
...
Hi Jake

I was told that the toner is actually real glaze with color and resin to
make it like toner, and transfer to decal with nomal laser printer like
Canon clc900.
I was in the trade of inkjet dye-sub transfer to ceramic, but only to the
coating of polyetster, not a real glaze.
Decal water transfer paper to ceramic is a mature technology. Buying ready
made decal for ceramic will not be difficult. But thay are all ready made
images or pictures printed by screen printing to decal paper in large
volume.
The price to make screens are expensive. What I am looking is laser print
with special toner to decal paper in a very small quanlity or even a

single
print only.
Did you try decal transfer to ceramic and fire in 800 deg C.

The toner is used by http://www.urbanclay.com to produce pictures.
Are they working?

Regards

K.T.Chan


Jake Loddington wrote in
:

In article , chan
writes
Any one have any thing about digital decal produced by laser printers?
I was told that the toner can be printed from a laser printer to decal
and transfer to ceramic surface and fire onglaze color.

k.t.chan


I suggest you try to get hold of a copy of a book called 'Ceramics and
Print' by Paul Scott, published by A.& C. Black of London UK. It
*must* be the second edition: the first edition wasn't very helpful
for your problem. The ISBN is 0 7136 5485 6 .

I assume that you're talking about using a monochrome laser? I've
tried this, and the trouble is that the usual toners (Epson, HP, etc.)
fire out at stoneware temperatures. There may be a slight sepia image
left, but this tends to disappear when it's glazed.

My method was to cheat the printer by switching off just before the
printed page reached the fuser. Then the image, of unfused toner,
could be transferred to a damp clay surface by gentle rubbing.

The nearest I got to satisfactory results was to use a somewhat
different method. I produced a properly fused image, and then used
this as a sort of litho plate, relying on the fact that the image
repels water but the background paper doesn't. I could then ink it
with an oily medium containing the ceramic stain or oxide, and then
*gently* wash off the surplus. If you're old enough to know about a
photographic technique called underwater bromoil, it's like that.

But despite all my efforts, I never produced anything which really
satisfied me!

I would very much like to know of an idiot-proof (and inexpensive) way
of transferring text images, preferably underglaze, to a ceramic
surface. Ordering custom-made decals is an expensive business when you
need only one-offs.

Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK



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