Hi Nanci,

Regarding the tension swatch - I take it you are following a pattern?
If the pattern recommends a tension of 6, I would probably knit a
tension swatch that used tension 5.. (5 and two dots), then two rows in
a contrasting colour, then a bit at T6, 2 rows contrast, T6. , 2 rows
contrast. Wash and block as before. The tension dial controls the
stitch width, the yarn brake tension dial controls the row height.

However, when you knit something on a machine, it will always look wide
and squat - a quick tug in the vertical direction lets the stitches go
back to a more natural shape.

I'm not quite sure what kind of edge you are trying to do. You could
transfer the stitches back to the main bed if you required. Or you
could slip them onto knitting needles, and knit ribs down by hand.

If it's for a jumper welt you could do mock rib - cast on with waste
yarn, transfer every other needle over and push the empty ones to
non-working position, K one row with ravel cord. K 10 rows MT-2, 1 row
T10 (this becomes the fold row), 9 rows MT-2. Pick up the bottom
stitches from the ravel cord, and place them onto the needles that
you'd pushed into NWP. Continue with the sleeve as per the pattern -
you can pull the ravel cord out later, and you should have a mock rib
welt.

The same can be done without doing mock ribbing - after doing the 20
rows, just pick up the bottom stitches and place them onto the needles.
This creates a built-in "hem" as it were.

Hope I've explained it ok!

Regards,

Jane