Oops! Adjust the overlay directions to treat the fabrics as one for the
bodice, but make an overlay skirt and a fabric skirt and attach them to the
bodice. My previous directions would have had them attached at the side
seams!



"Sew-Sew Lady" wrote in message
y.com...
Here is what I would do for that pattern.
I would adjust (shorten) the bodice to make sure that it fits all above
the
tummy---more of an empire waist.
I would cut out the bodice pieces a size 12. (Allowing for a little
growing
before the actual ceremony) Cut out the skirt pieces size 14. Add length
to compensate for the empire waist. Ease the skirt onto the bodice--like
a
sleeve. There's not so much difference between the two sizes, so if you
use
two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch the skirt
onto
the bodice with few if any noticeable puckers.
For the overlay, I would choose smooth, set in sleeves. [see
www.sewingpatterns.com and Simplicity pattern 5700] Cut the sleeve pieces
out of only the overlay fabric. Cut the bodice and skirt pieces out of
both
fabrics. Baste the overlays to the dress fabrics and assemble the dress
according to the directions. Finish the sleeves either with a very narrow
hem or with a bias binding made of the dress fabric. You can also finish
the neckline with the bias trim.
I think this pattern will work out well for your daughter's figure. Good
luck.

Windy

"Trish Brown" wrote in message
...
It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!

I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I
might,
I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric!

The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590.

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.

The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is
circular
and
allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine
a
starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one
thing,
I
don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using.
The only
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10);
84(12)
and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.

I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to
a
larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the
size
10
(which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and
tapering
out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with
extra
width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby
League
analogy...)!!!

The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a
garment
like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and
thought
it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned
Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work
on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small
cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it
to
the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?

Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this -
I'm in a
tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-?
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia

PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight
size
14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a
good
bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and
exactly
what
we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and
making
them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#&
bodice
has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee......