We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making it
now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on the
non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the
tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the drain
side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top
water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real
easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a
salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the
way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel
between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on
the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this
side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink
when you want to clean the sink out).

I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used
silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it more
air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from
Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight. I
also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved
the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my buckets
of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you want
things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under
part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If
you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the
medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining
them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you
paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting. I
have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it
(hidden on top) and it was still workable.

I read in Clayart to glue little bathroom cups upside down in you frame for
a wedging board to make a kind of upside down egg carton that gives you a
strong board but makes it lighter. I think you would need about an inch of
plaster to be around each cup in all dimensions. I'm still using an old one
I have but some day.....
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.e...AYART&P=R52545

For my ware boards I cut up leftover pieces of sheetrock I still in my
garage and basement because I could not stand to throw it out. I wrapped
the edges in ducktape and have no worry about pieces of the board getting in
my clay. I would not use these in a studio with beginning students but our
University's studio does and there has not yet been a problem.

http://sondahl.com/#pottery
http://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S1=clayart


"Jake Loddington" wrote in message
...
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England