On Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:56:59 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Ganesh
wrote:

Does any one have good sources on Antique Jewelry making techniques?

Most of the modern techniques of jewelry making, at least the traditional
"benchwork" methods, have roots in antiquity. Modern times have added better
steel for tools, electric motors and lights, torches, etc. But the basics
haven't changed all that much. If you understand jewelry making well by modern
methods, then careful examination of ancient works will usually give you a
fairly good idea of how things were made. But of course, some of the specific
methods will be different. For example, if you are used to setting stones with
a flex shaft motor and burs to cut the seats, and have never seen a manual bow
drill used, or seen a seat cut with and engraving tool, then that method may
not be apparent to you. Likewise, if you're used to making sheet and wire with
rolling mills and drawplates, then ancient methods using hammers to forge sheet,
or making wire by cutting a strip of sheet metal and then rolling, forming, and
stretching it, may also not be as apparent. If you're used to soldering with a
torch, then soldering using a furnace might seem strange. But in reality, the
things the metal is being asked to do is about the same in any of these cases,
only the specific tools change. And the effort and skills involved.

Some good references for background and history and the like might include Jack
Ogden's 1983 book, "jewelry of the ancient world", which gives lots of good
information that can help you identify old authentic pieces from modern
reproductions, as well as info on ancient metalurgy and methods. For more
modern information, such as the 1900s or so, find almost any of the old books on
goldsmithing by George Gee. These turn of the century (1900 or so) books
detailed the methods used in england at the time, which are pretty typical of
methods from the beginning of the industrial revolution up till then. The more
modern book, Herbert Maryon's "Metalwork and Enamelling" is still in print as a
Dover reprint. Maryon worked as a restorer and smith for the British Museum,
and his detailed text is a goldmine of both old and new methods. There are, of
course, many other fine books on goldsmithing or metalworking, all of which have
something to add. But these should give you a start. Ogden's book may be hard
to find. If you find a copy for sale, snap it up. It's worth the money.
Maryon's books is available, inexpensive, and good enough to recommend to any
interested jeweler, not just those looking to past methods. George Gee's books,
of course, are long out of print, but occasionally you'll find them in
libraries, or antique book stores, especially in England and Europe.

Hope that helps.

Peter Rowe