On Jan 10, 6:20*am, Adrian wrote:
Hi Moon

Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the
glazing company guy said).

He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would
become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in
advance! g

Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead
& coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about
'real' stained glass...

It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass
panels fitted to exterior windows....

...think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample..

Thanks
Adrian



* Moonraker wrote:
I've done it quite a few times. *The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be
installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered..
Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit)
will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the
spacer/dessicant/sealant. *The two pieces of float are sealed together, and
the art panel just "floats" in the cavity.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Folks

I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.

The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.

I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a
'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...

I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?

Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Most spacer bars are about 3/8" wide. I build my work to be 1" smaller
than the finished unit. This allows about 1/8" on the side for the
butyl to fill. Keep in mind that if your work is heavy then you'll
need something like small neoprene blocks inserted into the butyl on
the bottom to keep the weight of the panel from pushing down on the
spacer bar. If this window gets a lot of sun, believe me...you'll want
those blocks in there. My units are all built with aluminum spacer
bars and have desicant inside the bars. Most shops won't guarentee
that the unit won't fail...something to consider. 99% of all my units
are 5/8" thick overall.