studio design ideas
 

Hi,
We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio.
Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for
advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in
areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will
have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to
outside.
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.
Thanks in advance,
Andrea

I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England

Do a Google search on Gleco Trap

--
Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
"Jake Loddington" wrote in message
...
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England

whatever size table you want, add 8 inches all around.

cover the table completely before using it with canvas-curtain non stretch
material.

try to keep everything off the floor to hose the shop out once in a while.

use DEEP shelves! like 16 to 18 inches deep at least.

use shelving that isn't permanent in the height settings ~ you'll want to
adjust them from time to time.

you might actually get by just well with no sink or running water. use the
garden hose outside instead.

see ya

steve




Subject: studio design ideas
From: "A&V"
Date: 10/12/2004 12:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time
Message-id:

Hi,
We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio.
Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for
advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in
areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will
have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to
outside.
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.
Thanks in advance,
Andrea










steve graber

Hi Steve,
Thanks for your comments. Do you find that canvas tables collect dust? How
do you clean them?
My currant studio doesn't have running water now, and I am looking forward
to the luxury of cold and hot water!!! ( my hands seem to be in the buckets
forever )
Andrea
"Slgraber" wrote in message
...
whatever size table you want, add 8 inches all around.

cover the table completely before using it with canvas-curtain non stretch
material.

try to keep everything off the floor to hose the shop out once in a while.

use DEEP shelves! like 16 to 18 inches deep at least.

use shelving that isn't permanent in the height settings ~ you'll want to
adjust them from time to time.

you might actually get by just well with no sink or running water. use
the
garden hose outside instead.

see ya

steve




Subject: studio design ideas
From: "A&V"
Date: 10/12/2004 12:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time
Message-id:

Hi,
We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my
studio.
Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for
advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in
areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio
will
have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to
outside.
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.
Thanks in advance,
Andrea










steve graber

Thank you!!!
Andrea




"wayne" wrote in message
. ..
Do a Google search on Gleco Trap

--
Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
"Jake Loddington" wrote in message
...
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful
so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England

I have made several sink traps over time and have the odd drawing I
could mail out (JPEGs) to anyone interested. Contact me privately at
steve at bathpotters dot co dot uk

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Jake Loddington
writes
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making it
now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on the
non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the
tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the drain
side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top
water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real
easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a
salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the
way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel
between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on
the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this
side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink
when you want to clean the sink out).

I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used
silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it more
air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from
Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight. I
also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved
the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my buckets
of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you want
things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under
part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If
you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the
medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining
them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you
paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting. I
have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it
(hidden on top) and it was still workable.

I read in Clayart to glue little bathroom cups upside down in you frame for
a wedging board to make a kind of upside down egg carton that gives you a
strong board but makes it lighter. I think you would need about an inch of
plaster to be around each cup in all dimensions. I'm still using an old one
I have but some day.....
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.e...AYART&P=R52545

For my ware boards I cut up leftover pieces of sheetrock I still in my
garage and basement because I could not stand to throw it out. I wrapped
the edges in ducktape and have no worry about pieces of the board getting in
my clay. I would not use these in a studio with beginning students but our
University's studio does and there has not yet been a problem.

http://sondahl.com/#pottery
http://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S1=clayart


"Jake Loddington" wrote in message
...
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England

Thank you so much for this!! As bathroom is being renovated too now I know
what to do with the old bath! I like reusing rather than throwing out ( I
suspect most potters do).


"W_D_Great_Divider" wrote in message
...
We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making
it
now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on
the
non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the
tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the
drain
side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top
water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real
easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a
salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the
way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel
between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on
the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this
side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink
when you want to clean the sink out).

I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used
silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it
more
air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from
Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight.
I
also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved
the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my
buckets
of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you
want
things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under
part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If
you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the
medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining
them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you
paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting.
I
have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it
(hidden on top) and it was still workable.

I read in Clayart to glue little bathroom cups upside down in you frame
for
a wedging board to make a kind of upside down egg carton that gives you a
strong board but makes it lighter. I think you would need about an inch
of
plaster to be around each cup in all dimensions. I'm still using an old
one
I have but some day.....
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.e...AYART&P=R52545

For my ware boards I cut up leftover pieces of sheetrock I still in my
garage and basement because I could not stand to throw it out. I wrapped
the edges in ducktape and have no worry about pieces of the board getting
in
my clay. I would not use these in a studio with beginning students but
our
University's studio does and there has not yet been a problem.

http://sondahl.com/#pottery
http://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S1=clayart


"Jake Loddington" wrote in message
...
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful
so
far.

I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15:
building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England

In message , A&V
writes
Hi,
We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio.
Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for
advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in
areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will
have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to
outside.
I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far.
Thanks in advance,
Andrea


I've just read my copy of the latest 'Ceramic Review', and there's a
review by Peter Lane of a new book by Virginia Scotchie called 'Setting
Up Your Ceramic Studio', published by Lark Books / Sterling (no ISBN
quoted).

quote
A more unusual publication by Virginia Scotchie allows us to view,
through plans and colour photographs, twelve independently designed and
built pottery studios established in the south eastern United States.
All reflect the needs and aspirations of the individuals concerned, and
appear spacious and well lit while displaying examples of the ceramics
produced in each. These personal experiences of solving a wide variety
of problems would be helpful to anyone preparing to set up an
ergonomically sound workshop, especially if they are in a position to
start from scratch.
end quote

This could be useful, especially if you can persuade the local library
to order it on your behalf . . .

Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. England