Hanging miniature wallpaper
 

Hi,

One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled
dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't
see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is
not original but it is a step by step documentation.

http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm



Pat

Pat Connelly

pjjconnelly at ameritech dot net

www.fnadoc.com

Pat wrote:

Hi,

One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled
dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't
see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is
not original but it is a step by step documentation.

http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm

Thanks for the info., great job! I must have small hands, no problem
with wallpaper (I use a thick starch solution long unused in our cellar)
and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the
window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I
just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening.

"Dan Wenz" wrote in message
...
Pat wrote:

Hi,

One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled
dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just
can't
see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it
is
not original but it is a step by step documentation.


http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm

Thanks for the info., great job! I must have small hands, no problem
with wallpaper (I use a thick starch solution long unused in our cellar)
and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the
window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I
just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening.


Dan,
I would paper first also. This dollhouse was "rescued" from my barn
where there was significant rodent damage. The windows were already in
place and I had to strip the old wallpaper.
You are certainly more dexterous than I am. I really have trouble
working within the small rooms. I would paper the walls as the dollhouse is
being built but the decision making that early in the game seems to be
impossible.
What starch solution do you use to hang the paper? I am not sure about
the long term stability of my glue stick.

Pat

I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern,
but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a
fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove
the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or
floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a
crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern
that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to
do, but often none at all.

I use contact cement on both serfaces. walls are easier that floors,
cause gravity helps. for floors I put the patern doen on the dry
contact cement, and the carpet or tile on top of that. nothing sticks
to anything. I amke sure everything is lined up and slide the pattern
out. works like a charm every time.

Pat wrote:

Hi,

One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled
dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't
see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is
not original but it is a step by step documentation.

http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm

Pat

Pat Connelly

pjjconnelly at ameritech dot net

www.fnadoc.com

On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 08:09:28 -0400, Dan Wenz
wrote:


and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the
window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I
just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening.
And don't fasten windows, doors and stairs any more solidly than is
required to hold them in place under appropriately scaled loadings.
This makes future redecorating projects much more enjoyable.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at
boeing.com" wrote:

I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern,
but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a
fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove
the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or
floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a
crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern
that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to
do, but often none at all.


I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet
possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to
the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to
define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small
pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be
extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be
careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me
how I know!)
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at
boeing.com" wrote:

I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern,
but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a
fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove
the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or
floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a
crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern
that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to
do, but often none at all.


I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet
possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to
the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to
define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small
pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be
extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be
careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me
how I know!)
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might
give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I
definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how
nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating.
The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around.
My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount
of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped.
In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished
project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-)

Pat

If you are careful, the windows and dorrs can be fit to an exact size so
that they just slide into the slot (from the inside) and are not glued.
You do that by making them a fraction oversize and trim them with rough
sandpaper. it takes a while and you need to mark any that are identical
cause they usually will only fit into the hole that they were trimmed
for.

Pat wrote:

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at
boeing.com" wrote:

I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern,
but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a
fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove
the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or
floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a
crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern
that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to
do, but often none at all.


I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet
possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to
the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to
define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small
pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be
extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be
careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me
how I know!)
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might
give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I
definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how
nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating.
The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around.
My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount
of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped.
In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished
project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-)

Pat

A dab of stick-um helps hold them in place, (very easy if the window or
door has built-in molding) but they're still easily removable.

- Herb

Steve Burns wrote:

If you are careful, the windows and doors can be fit to an exact size so
that they just slide into the slot (from the inside) and are not glued.
You do that by making them a fraction oversize and trim them with rough
sandpaper. it takes a while and you need to mark any that are identical
cause they usually will only fit into the hole that they were trimmed
for.

Pat wrote:

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at
boeing.com" wrote:

I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern,
but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a
fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove
the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or
floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a
crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern
that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to
do, but often none at all.


I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet
possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to
the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to
define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small
pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be
extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be
careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me
how I know!)
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might
give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I
definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how
nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating.
The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around.
My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount
of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped.
In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished
project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-)

Pat

I don't glue in doors and windows. If they're a bit loose, I use minihold.
It's easier to redecorate and clean the windows if they're removable (I
don't clean the windows of my real house!).
Wallpapering - I use the same method someone else described. I leave the
doors and windows off, paper the whole room, and then cut out the holes for
the doors and windows. Wait about a day to make the cuts because if the
paste isn't totally dry, the wallpaper won't cut nicely. Molding around the
openings hides any ragged edges.
For papering itself, I use Minigraphics wallpaper paste. I apply a thin
coat to the paper, wait a couple of minutes to let it set and then apply the
paper from the top down. I rub it with a rag as I go along and then again
at the end to get out any bubbles.

Here's a tip for dark rooms. I put a mini spotlights in a corner where it
can't be seen. I've also put the spotlights around the outside of the
house. Looks nifty.
The only caution is that these lights get quite hot and you don't want to
put them near foliage.

Carol
S P Miniatures
www.spminiatures.com