Adjusting pattern sizing question
 

Hi everyone! I hope someone can offer me some advice. I'm sewing a pair of
pants and it's my first try a a pattern that isn't one of the "easy" ones.
Here's the issue: my hips are one size smaller than my waist. Can I just
cut on the larger waistline and blend the pattern cutting lines together?
And if that's so, then which crotchline should I use? If I can't do that,
then should I just rely on letting out the waistline darts to make the waist
bigger? TIA!
Sara L.

Sara wrote:

Hi everyone! I hope someone can offer me some advice. I'm sewing a pair of
pants and it's my first try a a pattern that isn't one of the "easy" ones.
Here's the issue: my hips are one size smaller than my waist. Can I just
cut on the larger waistline and blend the pattern cutting lines together?

Yes! I do this all the time, for both myself and customers. Make it a
nice smooth curve.

And check the rise measurement - but it should be OK.

And if that's so, then which crotchline should I use?

The one for the hip size you choose. But check it!

If I can't do that, then should I just rely on letting out the waistline darts to make the waist
bigger?

Nah... They tend to hang off line if you do that for a whole size,
because the balance is wrong.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Thank you so much Kate! I was getting all antsy wanting to make my pants
but too nervous to do the wrong thing.



"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
Sara wrote:

Hi everyone! I hope someone can offer me some advice. I'm sewing a pair
of pants and it's my first try a a pattern that isn't one of the "easy"
ones. Here's the issue: my hips are one size smaller than my waist. Can
I just cut on the larger waistline and blend the pattern cutting lines
together?

Yes! I do this all the time, for both myself and customers. Make it a
nice smooth curve.

And check the rise measurement - but it should be OK.

And if that's so, then which crotchline should I use?

The one for the hip size you choose. But check it!

If I can't do that, then should I just rely on letting out the waistline
darts to make the waist bigger?

Nah... They tend to hang off line if you do that for a whole size,
because the balance is wrong.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 11:35:33 -0400, Sara wrote:
Hi everyone! I hope someone can offer me some advice. I'm sewing a pair of
pants and it's my first try a a pattern that isn't one of the "easy" ones.
Here's the issue: my hips are one size smaller than my waist. Can I just
cut on the larger waistline and blend the pattern cutting lines together?
And if that's so, then which crotchline should I use? If I can't do that,
then should I just rely on letting out the waistline darts to make the waist
bigger? TIA!

Got any pants that fit you well? If so, put one leg inside the other, as
if you were going to sew the crotch seam from front to back. Trace off
the "right hip size" pattern, remove the seam allowances from it, and
lay the pattern pieces over your pants that fit. The crotch curve shape
and depth and width, along with total hip circumference, are the hard parts
to fit for pants. The rest can be finagled -- so check to see if that
area is correct for you first.

Kay

Dear Sara,

When commercial companies draft pants, they use the hip to begin the
draft. Use a larger size, and take in the waist. In any case, when you
use a new pattern, you need to make a muslin first before using your
good fabric. You may need to alter the crotch length or depth. Make
all the alterations by basting the muslin together, and then fit it and
use the muslin for your final pattern.

Teri