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Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
Hi,
I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
"Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
"charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1
@aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
HI Kris
Kris Krieger wrote: "charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight. In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece ! Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap. It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc. Hope this helps Adrian www.inspired-glass.com |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
On Sep 3, 3:09*pm, Kris Krieger wrote:
"charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message . .. Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? *if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Cut the mirror as close to the shape you want as possible.Grind as little as possible. Lay the mirror on some clear contact paper and trim away the excess with an exacto knife....THEN foil. The contact paper will prevent the flux from getting on the mirror AND help prevent scratches. I gave up painting the back and edge of mirror years ago. |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
Adrian wrote in
: HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: "charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight. In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece ! Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap. It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc. Hope this helps Adrian www.inspired-glass.com Thanks, Alex! I assume that the varnish is similar to Charlies's use of Krylon...both are good ideas :) Just out of idle curiosity, have you even used any of the pre-cut mirrors, such as the small circles? - Kris |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
|
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
HI Kris
Kris Krieger wrote: Adrian wrote in : HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: "charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight. In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece ! Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap. It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc. Hope this helps Adrian www.inspired-glass.com Thanks, Alex! I assume that the varnish is similar to Charlies's use of Krylon...both are good ideas :) Yes - same idea, I guess... Actually - I'm surprised that the Krylon does the job - I can understand it protecting the back of the glass, but in my experience it's the _edge_ of the glass that's most vunerable..... Just out of idle curiosity, have you even used any of the pre-cut mirrors, such as the small circles? No - never used them - I'd imagine they'd suffer from the same problem unless they've been pre-treated with a varnish or something similar... Regards Adrian |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
Adrian wrote in
: HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: Adrian wrote in : HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: "charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight. In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece ! Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap. It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc. Hope this helps Adrian www.inspired-glass.com Thanks, Alex! I assume that the varnish is similar to Charlies's use of Krylon...both are good ideas :) Yes - same idea, I guess... Actually - I'm surprised that the Krylon does the job - I can understand it protecting the back of the glass, but in my experience it's the _edge_ of the glass that's most vunerable..... I'm wanting to use a mirror "pyramid" in the bottom of a largeish lamp-type stained glass construct (I'm trying to learn enough electronics to make a decently-bright solar-charged light, and teh mirror will keep it from "wasting" light, by having it bounce back up through the stained-glass panels of the unit). So I don't want the edges to get messy, but also, I'm considering all these ideas for also preserving the mirror back (which will be the botom of the lamp). I'd thought of just putting a panel of clear glass, or maybe even plexigalss or LExan, under it, but havent' decided, so I'm considering all teh various idea folks have offered :) Just out of idle curiosity, have you even used any of the pre-cut mirrors, such as the small circles? No - never used them - I'd imagine they'd suffer from the same problem unless they've been pre-treated with a varnish or something similar... Oh, I just meant as time-savers, since they're pre-cut ;) |
Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?
Kris:
If you need some help in the electronics aspect of this project, let me know. I have more than a passing knowledge of the subject. "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Adrian wrote in : HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: Adrian wrote in : HI Kris Kris Krieger wrote: "charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org: "Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking? Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly? Thank you in advance! - Kris it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful. Thanks for the info :) I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...? I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight. In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece ! Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap. It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc. Hope this helps Adrian www.inspired-glass.com Thanks, Alex! I assume that the varnish is similar to Charlies's use of Krylon...both are good ideas :) Yes - same idea, I guess... Actually - I'm surprised that the Krylon does the job - I can understand it protecting the back of the glass, but in my experience it's the _edge_ of the glass that's most vunerable..... I'm wanting to use a mirror "pyramid" in the bottom of a largeish lamp-type stained glass construct (I'm trying to learn enough electronics to make a decently-bright solar-charged light, and teh mirror will keep it from "wasting" light, by having it bounce back up through the stained-glass panels of the unit). So I don't want the edges to get messy, but also, I'm considering all these ideas for also preserving the mirror back (which will be the botom of the lamp). I'd thought of just putting a panel of clear glass, or maybe even plexigalss or LExan, under it, but havent' decided, so I'm considering all teh various idea folks have offered :) Just out of idle curiosity, have you even used any of the pre-cut mirrors, such as the small circles? No - never used them - I'd imagine they'd suffer from the same problem unless they've been pre-treated with a varnish or something similar... Oh, I just meant as time-savers, since they're pre-cut ;) |
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